illini girl, it will look fine! Having looked again at a bazillion Houzz kitchens and finished kitchens on Pinterest with the glass upper-uppers lit, and UCL, I'm noticing how much the color of the light affects the overall look. I've elected not to have my upper-uppers (which are glass on the range wall and half glass half solid on my refrig wall) not lit. Hope I don't regret it. edit - I just went and looked at my elevation pics and realized that even on my range wall not all my upper-uppers are glass. more from Houzz [Beach Style Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/beach-style-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2110) by Stone Harbor Architects & Designers Asher Associates Architects [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Atlanta General Contractors Blake Shaw Homes, Inc And to answer the other question re posting pics directly from Houzz - there is an icon called "embed" on the houzz page - either at the bottom of the picture or off to the side at the bottom. Click on it, and it will give you two choices, large or small. Most here are posted using the large format. Click on one and it will highlight the whole embed code. Copy it and pasted it onto the GW forum page.

I’m doing a renovation right now with an original ceiling height of 8’. With an added layer of sub floor, the final ceiling height is 95”. I elected to go with 36” uppers even though I want the cabinets to go all the way to the ceiling. 42” were an option, but it would result in a 17” clearance to the countertop. With under cabinet light i thought it would be far too crowded. The 36” cabinets will give a 23” counter to bottom of cabinet clearance. That seems high but it’ll give ample room for mixers, under cabinet lighting, etc. I’m also considering adding a floating wall mount shelf under the uppers at about 17” above countertop. I’d make the shelf maybe 8” deep to maintain the open workspace while adding display storage. Thoughts?

The short answer: for 3" molding with 108" ceilings the top of the cabinet would finish at 105" nominal and wall cabinets would be 51" total height set at 54" AFF nominal. The long answer. Standard for bottom of wall cab to finished floor is 54". With stone counters you have about 3/4" of play there but most often 54 is used. NOTE!! In some places inspectors measure 18" from the range to the undercabinet molding though. In every case I know of where that is the norm installers will put the undercabinet molding on after inspection but YMMV so find out. Then if it were me I would be looking at: How level are the floors? 54 is taken from the high spot in the run. If floors are out more than 1/2" it might be wise to adjust the base cabinet height to compensate. Now how level are the ceilings? and is the dimension 108"? I've seen "9 foot ceilings" that measured anywhere between 105 and 109". (Just today was speaking with an architect who was saying 9 ft ceilings- when I asked about finished hgt it turns out it will be 106 1/2 to 106 3/4 finished) New construction you have to assume reasonably level (and pray), if they are using TGI joists all the better. Since you are doing a remodel you can determine this ahead of time, with new construction we have to guess. Are you changing the floor out? If so will the finished height change? If things are out more than 1/2" over the run things get very tricky. Inset or full overlay? If inset- many brands have a wider top rail to allow some overlap for the molding while maintaining consistant rail height. Does the brand or maker you are working with do that? For instance a 2" top rail on an inset placed at 105" with 108" ceiling ht. needs 3 1/2" of molding. Are standard sizes important? (at this point usually not) I don't know of a standard wall cabinet that comes over 48" high. Taller cabinets mean an "increase height" or "combine cabinets" modification... or two cabinets simply stacked. With IH and (often) Combine you can usually specify and exact size. Either is better (and usually more cost effective after labor is accounted for) than just stacking two cabinets. Molding size- really should be determined on a case by case basis. Size of room, style, how level things are, and proportions. In most cases with that ceiling height and a room large enough to go to the ceiling with cabinets I am using more 4"-6" of total molding. AND almost always using a two piece stack and usually 3 (really short mounting pc, flat(ish) vertical and crown). That starts to allow for variation in level of ceiling and floor while not letting it show too much. If things are way out you need taller molding stack than if they are close to level. I will only specify a single piece molding if the client really wants it AND the installer agrees ahead of time. Over 90" total height you not miss a couple of inches in storage height. You will notice a bad molding job...forever. If the room itself is crowned? Will it match the cabinet molding? Or not? IF different, then: plynth blocks will be needed and the relationship of the moldings to each other must be accounted for.

We drew up 2 alternate designs a while back, one with the wall oven on the opposite wall (left of the door where we now plan to put some pantry cabinets), and one with the oven on the adjacent wall which gets rid of the corner. The later eliminated too much storage in our relatively small kitchen, the former created a safety hazard b/c the oven doors would open across the doorway with too much potential for kids and scatterbrained adults to collide with open oven doors. So the compromise is the somewhat awkward corner shown in the drawing. Our current range/oven is next to a corner on the opposite side of the kitchen with approximately the same dimensions as the plan. I payed attention yesterday to where/how I stand when putting items into and pulling out of the oven, and where/how I place them on the counter. I think we'll be OK....and the mixer will fit, too!