Hi plumienewbiesd, the black jet/nozzle on the top spray the water like umbrella its for watering the pots. uunder the black is the blue jet/nozzle its for humidity (spraying the water in very light quantity). In the following picture at left top picture you can see 1) 2 Programmable Irrigation Controller working with batteries. The first is GARDENA and the second GALCON. I use the first for my plants and the second only for my plumeria seedlings. 2. On the Controller is connected F20 plastic black pipe (you can see it on the ground)which going between the pots. 3. with F20 is connected a thiner black plastic pipe and to the end is connected with the black jet/nozzle and another thiner black pipe is connected with the blue jet/nozzle. With the above automatic watering and spraying system, 3 minutes every day is well enough for watering and all my plumerias pots and to get the needed humidity. Of course every 5-7 days I fertilize the seedlings with a can. sorry because my English ys n't in high level, I hope to be understood.

David, Ahh, I think I now understand that you were not trying to distinguish between DWV fittings and standard fittings, but rather between normal DWV fittings and long-sweep (or long-turn) DWV fittings. Is that right? If so, you may ignore my previous post. Your post threw me, as I would not have referred to standard DWV fittings as "small radius"; that term connotes standard supply fittings to me.

UPDATE... First off, thank you all for your comments and suggestions. I thought you'd like to know the final outcome of our plumbing & venting issues.... We have moved the shower drain pipe. After getting a totally unacceptable estimate of $4,800 to move our shower drain pipe & vent from our kitchen contractor that included punching a hole in the roof to vent the drain, we solicited comments and estimates from 3 outside plumbers. Of those 3, 2 proposed the same solution and a third proposed a different solution...none of these solutions involved punching a hole in the roof. Why not? Well, it turns out we have a whole-house vent stack in the attic that we can tap into. All 3 outside plumbers checked our attic to see if we had one and then proposed solutions using that vent stack. Our kitchen contractor's plumber never checked the attic for that stack so assumed he would have to go through the roof. (You know ASSUME does...) Our first outside plumber proposed tapping into the toilet waste pipe. But, all of the other plumbers were uncertain if that would pass code...this estimate was for $550 + $150 for an express permit The other two plumbers proposed rerouting the shower drain back to the main 2nd floor waste pipe...one was for $925 and the other for $1,000 both + cost of drywall repair. We went with the $925 estimate for a couple of reasons...(1) they were local and have an "A" rating across the board on Angie's List (the first time it's been useful!) and (2) the other plumber was not a master plumber (journeyman), he was not insured, and wasn't even sure if his license was up-to-date in our county...all red flags to us. Anyway, so our plumber came out and moved the drain pipe. He then told us he would try to run the vent to the attic without cutting into the wall (saving us the $500 for drywall repair). It worked! He was able to push the vent pipe up the wall and into the attic without any problems. While he was working on this we asked him about the Polybutelyne water pipes...he, as well as all the other plumbers, had recommended changing them out. We're on well water so there's no chlorine involved, but they did tell us that it would eventually become brittle and split. So, we got estimates for that and, since our kitchen project has been stalled for over 8 weeks, went ahead and had it done ($3,200 for replacing water pipes + $1,900 to repair drywall in 3 bedrooms + LR textured ceiling = $5,100. We already have the ceiling down in the kitchen and the main wall opened up so no charge for repairing those) This was all done fairly quickly and we have had both our final inspection done and the drywall repairs completed...in time for our kitchen to restart Wednesday. The only drawback...previously, since each fixture had it's own water pipe, flushing the toilet had no affect on the shower. Now, however....a very different story! It's taking some getting used to! BTW...it turns out the first plumber's solution would have met code and passed inspection since he had planned to use a sanitary T. I was curious so I asked the inspector about it when he was out Friday. If you want pictures, let me know and I'll post them. Thanks again everyone!

That's useful to know that you avoid damping off without sterilizing your soil, but I'm pretty sure that those pathogens really aren't abundant in air inside the home, unless the home is vigorously vented. This time of year, most people have their home air going through filters. Doors and windows are largely closed. The fungi don't live in the home. They live in the soil, and unless you have a lot of active soil in your house, with fans blowing on it, I have to doubt they'll effectively seed your pots through the air. That all assumes the seedlings are being grown indoors. If you're growing them outside (not many places you'd be doing that in February) all bets are off. Probably also in a greenhouse. So I'm going to maintain that if you are growing your seedlings indoors, with a standard HVAC system, the pathogens that cause damping off are largely in the mix you planted them in. With that in mind, you evidently can carefully manage moisture to avoid damping off, or you can sterilize the soil. Might be smart to do both, especially for those of us with less management experience. I suspect that's why good quality seed-starting mix is sterilized. I'm not sure what stagnant air has to do with it. Maybe air above the pot is too humid, because of the pot underneath it, and it's good to sweep that humid air away?