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Sharp MW Drawer - AntiTip ? (cross post)

15 years ago

(This is cross posted in the appliance forum)

I am considering installing the Sharp MW drawer in a cabinet that is not backed up to a wall. It is backed up to the side of another cabinet. The install instructions call for a block of wood to be installed for anti-tip and secured to the wood studs through drywall. Thus making it really secure.

I do see many that have installed these in islands, which would be similar to my situation.

How were these then secured?

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Comments (3)

jbrodie
15 years ago
Hmmm...not sure how ours is secured. Wondering if it is!

Just want to mention something about the options with these. From my understanding, there are three versions: completely manual, soft close, and automatic. Our friend has the automatic one and it drives me crazy how slow it is. You have to push a button and wait for it to come out, and the same to go in. I'm too impatient! So we got the completely manual one. Though I love it, the only problem with it is that you have to be careful when closing it if you have something like a full cup of coffee in there. It's not a completely smooth close and sometimes liquid sloshes out. If I did it again, I might go for the soft close. That one you still pull the handle instead of pushing a button, but it makes the opening and closing smoother (automatic) from what I understand. The only drawback is that I know some people have had trouble with the auto function failing, and if it's manual you never have to worry about that.

This was one of our splurges and I'm really glad we did it. It's especially great for our kids, and nice for us to have it in the island without having to bend down.
lascatx
15 years ago
Wow, I wish I had read this a week or two ago. Mine had to be pulled out to fix a crack in the face of the cabinet that happened at installation. I noticed something inside the cabinet, but my first thought is that it was a floor or something across the bottom. Now I want to pull it out and look. LOL

I would think you could put something into the side of a cabinet -- you just need some stability and a bit more than you would get from a thinner back panel.
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There is no chance that my installers secured anything into the wood studs through drywall. My MW drawer was sitting in the opening pending installation attempt #2 for a couple of days. The block of wood was needed primarily as a space filler between the top of the MW and the counter. You wouldn't want it to slide around, but on the other hand it wouldn't take much to secure it. I think they just secured to the frame of the cabinet. The initial problem with installing the MW was that it sticks out about 1/2 " to 1" on the back all along the bottom back. The back of my cabinet had to be cut out so that the MW would push back far enough.
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Sharp designed the drawer to put the movement in the cooking pattern rather than a turntable -- I suspect that is part of the reason for the price (new technology) rather than just the drawer mechanism. I can put a frozen item in or leftovers and loosen the top (so steam gets out and the sensor works), push sensor reheat and start and not have to tend to whatever it is. If I smell it cooking a lot, I may stop it 30 seconds early (maybe enough steam didn't escape?). Love mine, although I would get the taller one if I had to replace it (do you still have a choice - or is that old stock vs new stock?). I know there is room for a plug and cord in back, but I don't remember the exact shape. I sympathize -- I picked the only warming drawer that would fit in a 21" base (Dacor, which can go outdoors or in a bathroom, so it fits vanity cabinets) and there is no wiggle room on the plug with that one. You get it in the right spot or the drawer won't close flush. ;-) I don't remember the miccro drawer feeling that tight (23-1/2 would be fairly tight in a 24" deep cabinet minus the depth of the back). My warming drawer specs and installation guide showed a notch in one corner of the back where the outlet had to be placed. I don't remember anything that exacting for the micro, and I couldn't tell from the specs either. I suspect it has clearance for that plug across the back -- which could be up to 2" depth (just measured my mixer and toaster plugs LOL). Worst case, you might be able to place the plug above or below the drawer itself and create the clearance you need. Can you find a place that has one on display that would pull it out and let you measure and see and measure exactly what you would need to work with?
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Its about 2 1/2" from the top of the drawer to the bottom of the counter. The unit needs to rest on the shelf which Sharp says needs to be able to support 100 lbs. There was a 3/16" lip between the face frame and the bottom of the shelf so we put a piece of luan plywood on the shelf to bring it flush with the face frame. We needed to add a filler strip at the top of the opening and cut the sides back for it to fit. (Kraftmaid cabinet) The height is comfortable. Our granite overhangs the front more than is typical because of the corner posts and we can see the display just fine. Here is a link that might be useful: Sharp Installation Guide
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toddimt
Original Author
15 years ago
According to the manual, there should be a block 6" wide in the top right corner. The instructions don't specify a height or depth of the blocking but appears to be a 2x4 so about 1.5". Its not the easiest thing to make out in the drawings but it seems that this block fills the gap between the top of the microwave and the countertop/top of cabinet. The microwave I beleive rests on a plywood base for support (Please correct me if I am wrong) and the block sits 14 13/16 above the base. This leaves a gap of 1/8" from the bottom of the block to the top of the MW (The part that goes inside the cabinet).

This way the top of the MW can't tip down if something is loaded in the open tray since the top rear of the microwave will then press against this block. The only other installation is 4 screws (2 on each side)that hold the cavity of the MW to the face of the cabinet.

Here is a link to the manual in case anyone is interested.

http://www.sharpusa.com/files/mdo_man_install_24_30.pdf

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