new home: should I use a plumbing manifold and PEX tubing?
haden
14 years ago
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Comments (6)
llaatt22
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Question about PEX manifold
Comments (11)When the PEX is run inside the wall such as to the shower mixer or in a base cabinet such as to a kitchen or lavatory faucett the wall or cabinet afford it the necessary UV protection, however there is another problem that should also be considered before connecting the PEX directly to the fixture. If you attach the barb fitting to the faucett, then crimp the PEX to the barb fitting you have no union, therefore if it should be necessary to change that faucett in future you would have to cut the PEX. The customary practice is to run the PEX to a copper stub out at the wall, then run a conventional compression type supply tube from the wall to the fixture. If you don't desire to install the angle stop you can get a copper sweat x compression adapter to transition from the copper stub-out to the supply tube. Properly sizing PEX lines is another matter entirely. When running PEX you should not use the same diameter as when running copper or CPVC. Properly the PEX should be about one nominal trade size smaller. The reasoning is that copper pipe must be sized to insure the velocity of flow does not exceed 10ft/min in order to prevent pipe wall erosion. On the other hand, in order to minimize the potential for the formation of Biofilm on the inside of the pipe walls PEX tubing should be sized to insure a flow velocity of 10 to 12ft/sec....See MoreQuestion about pex plumbing
Comments (2)Although there are exceptions that prove the rule, in general all "PLUMBING" requires a permit but "Maintenance Plumbing" does not. The question then becomes, what constitutes "Plumbing" versus "Maintenance"? Maintenance is defined as maintaining an existing system in its original design and configuration therefore if you are replacing the original piping with the same size of lines and maintaining the same physical layout of the piping system you generally would not be required to pull a permit, however we must use a bit of caution here. In some jurisdictions if we are replacing pipe, valves or fixtures with exact like kind replacements it is defined as maintenance and no permit is required, but if we are switching to a different type of pipe, valves or fixtures such as replacing copper pipe with PEX they may require a permit. If we are adding additional fixtures or altering the physical location of the fixtures which would require altering the original layout of the supply and DWV lines that would technically be defined as Plumbing and generally would require both a permit and inspection. In general PEX is much easier to handle than copper but PEX requires a much greater attention to detail than copper or CPVC. By example, copper or CPVC requires a hanger within one foot of any major change in direction and one hanger for each 48" of linear run, but PEX requires a hanger for every 38" of linear run. (some jurisdictions require hangers every 36"). When installing hangers for PEX the hangers must allow fo ra greater physical movement of the pipe and the codes define a specified percentage of slack to compensate for thermal expansion and contraction, PEX must be afforded protection from both direct and indirect exposure to UV light. In some jurisdictions they require that when PEX is run through a stud bay, the underside of the stud bay must be covered with black plastic sheeting or other suitable means to prevent indirect UV light exposure. Color coding the hot and cold water lines is often done as a matter of convenience but i am not familiar with any specific code requirement to do so. Having said all of that, we must go back to what was mentioned in the previous reply. All jurisdictions have differing rules on permits. By example, in our municipal jurisdiction we are required to pull a permit for all water heater installations whether it is new or a replacement. On the other hand, in the county outside of our municipal district you can build an entire house from the foundation to finish and the only permits required are to drill a well, install a septic tank or attach the driveway to the public roadway....See MorePlumbing question- anyone seen tubing like this used tor pipes?
Comments (11)Good point about the rodents- not saying I haven't seen a mouse once or twice, but was more of an issue when I lived where the winters were colder. Now the scorpions, that's another story. Maybe they're what keeps the mice away. Thanks for the responses- it's been quite a week and knowing there's someplace to ask for second opinions helps keep the stress level down a bit. Lisa...See MoreShould I update my plumbing to pex if current pipes are good?
Comments (13)Please understand that I was the guy who has had to look at the leak in the ceiling and deduce where it is leaking. Mind you, not where it is showing, but where it is leaking. I had one lady who was really PO'd that I didn't magically know this. How dare I inconvenience her. On my second visit I brought the kids Ouija board. It can happen to you! As you will be spending a lot of time in that area, I would suggest a radon test prior to doing the re-model. rweigand, how different we are;) Someone shows me sparkling compound, tape and sandpaper and I'm heading for the door. Your post makes it sound joyful. Even sheet rockers don't like it. Matching a finish on a ceiling after a repair is exceedingly...touchy! If you do go with the rock make sure that they install some 1x3 strapping across the joist prior to the rock. A good electrical can fish from there. The difference between the basement and the first floor is that the entire distribution system is in the basement. That is where all the mains are for all services, electric, water, gas, heat, phone, etc. From the basement, the first and second floor are served with risers off of those systems. I can assure you that the plumber didn't anticipate covering the whole shebang. It is your house. Certainly decorate as you choose, Just be aware of what you are covering. Take detailed photos and measurements and SAVE them where they are accessible. That means not on your current PC. By the time you need it you may be 3 machines on. What that means to me is print the photos and do a scaled drawing and put the drawings in the 81/2x11 plastic sleeves and into a 3ring binder. Put that in the boiler room and tie it to something....See Morelazypup
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agojakethewonderdog
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agohaden
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agojake2007
14 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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