Hi Kitmu and Jjaazzy. I ended up using Grohe Allure in the masterbath instead. Here's the tub filler. And here's the lav faucet: My whole house reno is taking 27 times as long as expected, mostly because I am the GC and am trying to feel my way through this. Oh, and the plumber was an idiot who drag on the bathroom plumbing for months before we finally realized he just didn't know what he was doing. He's fired now. :) So, I can't tell you how I like the Grohe Allure or the Tea for Two tub. The tub was a bugger to get into place with the three walls surrounding it. Everyone had different opinions as to how to get it in place and how to build the tub deck surrounding it. The installation and deck/material has been a major PITA. I might have thought twice about buying that tub for that enclosure if I had known how much trouble it was going to be. It's just sitting there empty calling to me now. I hope the first soak is worth it!

Yesterday the tech came out when the temp was above 90 (finally) and he FINALLY agreed that my A/C didn't work. This time he said the unit needs to be replaced and amazingly the Warrenty Co. agreed!!!! So after a year of fighting I am getting a new A/C???? So. . . I now have to move fast and I have to use the them because they are the Warrenty Co's choice. The following are the charges that I'm supposed to pay (total $1750): $225 Transition Sheet metal 75 Gas Line DRip Leg 250 Duct Testing 325 Unit siting Curb 175 Disposal (opt) 450 Duct retest/cert by Independent Duct specialist 250 2nd Crane (2 required ??) Home owner responsible for all permits and codes. They say that 2 cranes are required because mine is a roof downdraft unit. 1 to pull old unit (my expense) and 1 to place the new unit (warrenty co). They say it has to be done fast so the 2 cranes will sit side by side. I know our county has a lot of rules about duct sealing etc, and as my house is old, I'll probably need work done. Also when I checked their Contractor License had been suspended: " License is under suspension for failure to comply with Workers Comp. A worker's comp certificate or exemption statement may have been received by Board but not yet processed. Ask the contractor for proof of worker's comp and contact insurance company to verify coverage". Comments about costs etc? and the license thing? I'm thinking about agreeing to them doing the A/C install and going somewhere else for the duct check etc? Don't get me wrong, I'm THRILLED that they're finally doing something (after a year of fighting and games), but that fact also makes me distrustful. Thanks for your earlier comments, that helped me deal with them in a more informed manner.

I an building two small walls (1' tall x 5' circum (half circle) ~4" thick, inside two large fountains that contain fire pit mechanisms (above the water line. Doing this to seperate the water from all the gas and fire parts, basically half circel connect to back of on side (water comes out front sides). I need to run the return line up, 90 degree then out the new wall since it comes up in the area I am sealing off. Once install the wall, I will replaster the entire part remaining for the water (fountain). I purchased the return fittings which connect to 1.5 pipe, also have outside thread for 2" I think, and inside thread for any fitting for retrun. Question is should I run the 1.5 pipe and just connect to it (seems best, and how others are done) or install female 2" and thread into it? If I run the pipe, I need to leave space around it to install the return fitting, how much clearance should I leav? Do I plaster before installing fitting, or put it in and plaster up to it? And if so, how does the seal work around the pipe, fitting, etc? Id there some sealant that goes inside areoound the itting to fill in? It also seems I need to have the pipe just the right length form the outside edge of the wall for all of this to work. Since I am pouring concrete, not gunite spray, I will need to put something around it to keep concrete where fitting will go. Any adive on how to work this fitting in would be appreciated. Dan

dovetonsils, I could be off on my balance point estimate. Whether it is 35-40, or 20-25 (seems very low for a conventional heat pump), it is going to be dependent on a lot of variables. There are two balance points. One is the point where it is more economical to use the heat pump versus the back up heat system. If the back up is resistance heat, then I agree with you it is towards your range. If you are using propane, then it should be at the higher range. If the cost of propane goes up, then the balance point can be changed. I happen to think we are going through a long period of low natural gas and propane prices, but that is just my opinion. The other balance point is the temperature at which the heat loss of the house is greater than the heat provided by the heat pump. Usually that is higher than the economical cross over, but again it is highly dependent on the specific house and heat pump performance. It seems to me air handlers cost about the same as a furnaces assuming they have similar features. Even if the furnace is a little more expensive, the OP will come out ahead if the difference is less than the additional required electrical work. The furnace blower will be used every time the heat pump operates. The part that will be used less often is the gas valve and burner. Not much maintenance to be done. Every 2-3 years should be fine. It will also mean less wear and tear on the heat pump. The other nice thing about having the furnace is that if the heat pump fails, you can heat the house with no problem while you wait for service. It is no fun servicing a heat pump in the middle of a winter storm. I think the OP should get quotes for both options as part of the decision making process. Either option is viable and will work.