I also miss the liveliness Pete brought to this forum--and it was sometimes fun to watch posters respond who were very upset with him. Most of us long-time posters learned to put up with his sometimes cantankerous foibles because we enjoyed the positive energy and helpful advice he brought at other times to this forum. Pete claims to be totally burned out on forums, but I hope, with time, that that can be reversed. But, finally, it is up to the powers-that-be. Don't know if they will ever re-consider. Kate

I think there's a range of conditions that plants will tolerate, some are quite adaptable, others are not. For example, Asclepias incarnata, Swamp milkweed, grows only in wetlands in the wild, but in the garden it grows quite well in medium soil. As for Hosta growing in full sun, I've observed that some will tolerate it, but they don't like it and don't perform their best. This hosta is a blue cultivar that is growing in morning shade, and some afternoon sun. As you can see, it has lost most of its blue color, has terrible sunscald and is not very happy in even a few hours of sun (don't worry, I'll be moving it next year) -

LJ: It is rather unfortnate that you had such an unrewarding experience from Winter Sowing, and really it is because you did not Winter Sow. The point in Winter Sowing is to put your containers outdoors in the winter and let them go through freeze, thaw, or whatever nature throws at them. Keeping them in a greenhouse that does not go below zero will not do it for those plants which require a period of freezing (cold stratification) to germinate. That includes many of the native perennials, coneflowers, etc. I would like to comment on some of your lessons learned: You said: Don't plant too early -- even if the plant comes up, holding them in the grow cells causes them to be slow when put in the ground. The idea is to plant early - in the dead of winter (some people plant at Winter Solstice), so the seeds can have a freezing period if required, or several freeze&thaw cycles to loosen their seed-coats. If the seedlings emerge when nature signals it is the right time, they will take off when you put them in the ground, because they are already acclimatized to that environment. When they are transferred from a 'protected' environment (like a greenhouse) they undergo more stress and will take time to get over it i.e. be slow when you put them in the ground. You said: Unless you are happy losing plants, try to plant them so they can be easily separated. I am going to plant mine all in separate grow cells next year. Many seeds are so small you cannot sow them separately i.e. petunias, poppies. Winter sown seedlings are so hardy you can simply pry them apart and either plant them to grow on for a few weeks, or you can do the HOS method which is described in Wintersown.org. That way nothing is lost. Sheila, there are many people in your zone who Winter Sow. The best things to start with are hardy perennials, which you can grow on over the summer, then plant out in fall for flowering in the summer. There are some annuals which are easily winter sown: Nasturtiums, sweet peas, petunias come to mind. Other more tender annuals like zinnias must be sown in the spring - they just cannot take the winter. You will also have to start tomatoes, peppers, etc. indoors - even here in Zone 5 we need to do that in order to get ripe tomatoes before the snow flies. Winter Sowing is not just a matter of containers - I use all sorts of things. If you have not done so, please consult Wintersown.org and read Trudi's guidelines for selecting seeds suitable for Winter Sowing. I started Winter Sowing in earnest in 2006 and I have gardens full of plants all wintersown except my bulbs. If you start studying the information in Wintersown.org now, you will be able to get lots of seeds through the garden exchange forum, and you will find it a most rewarding experience. If you wish, I could send you out a 'newbie' pack of seeds to help you on your way. Good Luck!! Northerner.

rats, I missed it! When are you going to do it again?