I guess I'm in line for a commendation! Read it, understand it, probably can't advise you on ROI. Personally, I would NOT combine a laundry and Powder Room into a single space - especially with the tight fit you describe. If you want a Powder Room, consider relocating the laundry to the basement. I suspect an additional bath and private master bath would be more appealing to potential buyers whenever you sell. Finish the basement in the future as needs/funds permit. I'd suggest speaking with a local realtor. Just draw a couple sketches and stop at an office. They'll get a future lead and you'll get some market advise to aid in your decision. Good luck.

pps7, I'm sorry I didn't see your post in April. :( Thank you for your comments! labocki, the master is real marble called Gioia and I bought it from DalTile. I was originally going to do a patterned floor and subway in the shower, too! Then I saw the marble and decided to use it everywhere. I thought a 'tile rug' with patterned tile in the middle of the floor would be the star of that bathroom until I realized I would probably have a real rug covering that cold marble tile floor and it would cover any tile rug so I just did 100% 12x12 polished marble everywhere. That was a short story made long :) but I wanted to tell you I had your vision also (Mrs. Limestone-ish). Having said all that, I would be very happy with the Carrera Star on all of the surfaces in the master. The shower floor can be your basketweave. Or maybe the shower floor plus a row on the wall similar to the bubbles in our hall bathroom. The faucets in the master were bought at Home Depot about 10 yrs ago and I think they are Delta. I did see similar faucets in either HD or Lowes. Good luck! maggie200, thank you! Personally, I would not use vessel sinks now and glass block would depend on how you are using it. I'm going out of town tomorrow morning and still have to pack after work today but if I have time I'll find your posts.

Your overall layout and use of fittings is very good and you will not require any additional venting. Now we need to go back and tweak it up a bit so you have no problem with the inspector. In regards to your lavatory riser size, many local codes require all piping under a slab to be a minimum of 2" so I would suggest you keep the 2" riser and place a 2" 1/4bend on top. You would then install a 2" x 1-1/2" bushing and stub out a 1-1/2" waste arm out to the trap adapter. Understandably this is a dry fit and your vertical risers may be a bit off vertical, but when you finally glue them up you must use a level and make sure they are straight vertical and not slightly angled. Code requires that we must use primer on all PVC joints prior to gluing. Use the primer with the purple dye so both you and your inspector will have a visual indicator that the primer was used prior to gluing each joint. When we go through the hardware store selecting materials it is easy to grab the wrong can of glue. Take a moment and actually read the label to insure the can you select is PVC glue and not a Universal glue or ABS glue. Now here is a little known code requirement that often catches even the most experienced plumbers off guard. PVC pipe is made for Electrical Conduit, Pressure piping, DWV piping and both Sanitary and Storm drainage piping however, PVC pressure pipe is made under ASTM D-1785 and the pipe size conforms to the IPS (iron pipe standards) for schedule 20, 30, 40, 80, 120 and in some instances schedule 200. For storm drainage or sanitary sewer pipe applications PVC is also made under the SDR standard (Size Dimension Ratio standard). The code specifically states that all DWV piping MUST BE schedule 40 pipe and it must be labeled as conforming to ASTM D-2665. Although there is some PVC pipe made specifically to ASTM D-2665 and it is limited to DWV applications only, as a rule all PVC sched.40 pipe will be listed on the pipe wall as conforming to ASTM D-1785 & ASTM D-2665. When installing the pipe we must take care to insure that the manufacturers labeling printed on the pipe wall is clearly visible. Generally when laying pipe in a trench the printed label should be on the top of the pipe and when running vertical or horizontal above grade it should be on the front or side of the pipe where it can easily be seen when standing nearby. I have seen some hard-nose inspectors red tag a job because he or she could not read the label. The pipe in your trench should be padded with sand before backfilling. If you will be getting an inspection you should put enough sand in the trench to pad the underside of the pipe and perhaps part way up the pipe walls, but be sure to keep the top of the pipe clearly visible for inspection and have additional sand available on-sight so the inspector can be assured that you intend to pad the top of the pipe after inspection and prior to backfilling.

littlebug - that was my wife's original approach. It would certainly be cheaper. Guess we're thinking of an edgier, more contemporary feel, but the straight lines are more practical in many ways. We'll have to curtains inside bedroom because of the glass but it'll be more fun with the glass, I guess? Mark-great idea! Provides angular symmetry with SW bedroom/office. Further it expands theater so we can pack more teenagers in, ha ha. The main room wouldn't be harmed by losing a few square feet.