"WRONG, water should NEVER come out of the overflow on the brine tank... never ever. Something is wrong! " justalurker, I agree with you that there is a problem with the softener! I was referring to the immediate problem being resolved - namely, the almost ankle depth water in the utility room that we had to deal with when we first discovered this issue. As I mentioned, we have switched the softener to bypass mode now so atleast we dont have to deal with overflowing water in the utility room, but like you said we still need to fix the root cause with the softener. The documents and links you provided gave pretty good overview of how the softener works and how it can be serviced. I also talked to the softener dealer I had purchased the softener from and they advised me to try some things: 1) Confirm that the PE brine tube connecting the control valve and brine tank is connected securely to the control valve. (verified this is true) 2) Remove the air check valve from the brine tank (BTW, is the "air check valve" the same as the "safety float" you keep referring to in your posts?). Clean out the air check valve to remove anything that might prevent it from sucking the brine from the brine tank back into the control valve. I tried to pull out the PE tube from the white plastic elbow (see photo of this in the link below) so that I can lift out the air check valve from the white cylinder in the brine tank and clean it, but it seemed quite tight (maybe its supposed to be this tight) and I didnt want to yank on it too hard and cause further damage (just playing safe due to my inexperience dealing with softeners). Will it be easier to remove the PE tubing from the white plastic elbow if I turn the control valve to "Backwash" position manually and remove some water from the PE tubing first? If so, when control valve is in "backwash" position, would the water from the PE tubing flow out the "bypass outlet" (and hence require me to turn off the bypass) OR would it flow out the "drain line"? Basically, I am trying to figure out the right way to remove and clean the "air check valve". 3) If cleaning the "air check valve" does not help, the dealer advised to remove the control valve and bring it in because it would probably still be covered under warranty. Per the dealer, since the softener was purchased and installed in late summer of 2006, most of the repair costs should still be covered under manufacturer's warranty. As I understand they would send the control valve to the manufacturer (Water Right) and get it back within 7-10 days and I would be responsible for 25% of the cost. So if it comes to this, I will need to figure out the right way to remove the control valve - I understand it should not be too hard and the control valve can be "twisted off" from the top of the resin tank (how do i disconnect control valve from the bypass or the water meter before twisting it off the resin tank)? As you quoted Clint Eastwood, I can and prefer doing the "basic" troubleshooting (i.e. cleaning air check valve and, if needed, remove the control valve) but since its under warranty, it might be best to have it fixed by the pros (in the case the manufacturer themselves). Would appreciate help with these "basic" tasks. Thanks again, -Topper Here is a link that might be useful: PE tubing connected to white plastic elbow

Would have been more considerate for you to start a new thread rather than pollute someone else's thread when your post has nothing to do with the thread's content. Regarding your water problems... There are a variety of less effective ways to attempt to treat water which you seem to have discovered but it really is as easy as 1-2-3 1. Certified lab test to determine what needs to be treated. 2. Have a water treatment professional evaluate the environment and decide on the most inclusive and comprehensive treatment and hardware required. 3. Have a water treatment professional install and configure the equipment for correct and efficient operation.

Terminox has gotten good results. Like any of the iron-removal methods I listed, it will depend on water conditions. When dealing with well waters, dissolved oxygen will be a concern with any system. You will want to know how much dissolved oxygen your water has in order to determine the best system for your water. This requires a special procedure for sampling that you will need to discuss with the lab that will be doing the test. TAC variants: They will all be expensive to maintain - the media is not cheap. Softeners: If you decide to purchase a softener, a 0.75 cubic ft softener will work nicely for your situation. If you install a separate iron removal system upstream, the softener will only need to regen every couple of weeks. If you choose to use only the softener, it will regen every 4 days. As to specific systems, this is where your research takes place. I can tell you what to specify, and help to evaluate quotes once you have them, but ultimately you are the one that has to have a comfort level with the vendor you choose. I suggest starting with the local water treatment pros to see what they can offer. The benefit of this approach is having someone to turn to if something goes wrong. You pay for that benefit, of course, but for most people it is the way to go. If you decide to order online, you will be provided only what you specify and any and all problems are yours to diagnose and fix. Provided you are comfortable with that, it can be a good option. Be aware that though you will spend less money, you will spend more time. The following requirements are for an industry standard softener. If you are looking for a non-electronic softener, Kinetico offers the more reliable options at a premium price (and you would need to deal with a local Kinetico rep). Any decent softener vendor should be able to provide the following: High quality American or German made resin. This will provide a tight size distribution for optimal flow within the resin Since you have WELL WATER: 8% crosslinked resin. Top basket. This serves two purposes. It sets up a proper water distribution during normal operation and prevents resin loss during backwash. Gravel underbed. The gravel underbed is there to set up proper flow patterns, improve backwash, keep the bottom basket in place and prevent basket failure, and prevent channeling. Many softener sales companies like to leave this out or sell softeners with a vortex system instead. Vortex systems weigh less than gravel so they cost less to ship. In addition, they are a more expensive item that adds profit for the softener salesperson, but provides no additional benefit to the homeowner . It simply adds another piece of equipment that can break. Fleck or Clack valves. These set the industry standard. Be aware that you will not be able to purchase Clack valves online. This is not a problem if you purchase locally. The valve should regen based on...

-is it true that the timed, automatic control valves will not hold up in exterior sunny, hot conditions? NO. There are environmental (outdoor) covers available for Fleck and other industry standard control valves. You'd be served to provide some protection from the elements regardless of the brand of softener you choose. Some type of small shed or enclosure built against an exterior house wall would be fine. -is the Kinetico system sized correctly? Maybe. It is not uncommon for softener sellers to be oblivious to SFR requirements. -does Fleck also makes an on demand valve? How well does it work and would you recommend it? Yes they do. Timer based valves are very old technology and markedly less efficient than contemporary demand initiated designs. Pretty much EVERY control valve manufacturer makes and recommends a demand initiated control valve now days. -during a power outage, would we have water on the electric controlled valve? Or is that what the bypass would be for? Yes you would have soft water during a power outrage. The only advantage to the Kinetico design control valve is that it does not require electricity to regenerate. Contemporary control valves that require AC power only use AC power during regeneration at only a certain intervals during regeneration. An adequately sized uniterruptable power supply (UPS) used for computers work nicely on softeners to ride out intermittent power interruptions as long as the power isn't out all day. -If we go with Fleck, what size system will we need? Always size a softener for the maximum hardness the water system will have. I'd prefer to have test results from your location rather than the water authority. Their test point is miles of pipe away from your home. PH is a touch high. Need a better test for SFR... with your results it's 15gpm. Use a tub and open both hot and cold. In your circumstances you are kind of a captive audience and it sounds like the Kinetico dealer is your only option if you aren't willing or able to do some work. If the Kinetico dealer has a good reputation around your area they may be your best (only?) choice, but bear in mind that if they have a bad rep for service after the sale then you may be buying a $3000 door stop.