Sounds like water running in the wall...
blondelle
16 years ago
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Comments (6)
asolo
16 years agoblondelle
16 years agoRelated Discussions
AC Not Cooling
Comments (2)You have to work with us by taking temperatures & by getting an Indoor thermometer with a humidity meter at a hardware store. True Value has one mfgÂered by Springfield also perhaps Ace has them. Were all of the air ducts checked for leaks & thoroughly sealed? It could have the wrong freon metering device, either oversized or undersized, or a condenser evaporator mismatch. Airflow may not be correct & system could be overcharged. There could be restrictions in the refrigerant system. Get your tech to go to my web pages for some tech savvy. udarrell _ 2007 --------------- DISCLAIMER: I assume NO responsibility for how anyone uses the information I provide. A licensed Contractor should always do all HVAC/R work! I provide information for your understanding, edification & communication with contractors & techs. You are responsible for your decisions! udarrell Here is a link that might be useful: udarrell.com...See MoreDoes this sound like a bad water pump on my Kenmore 110.92380200?
Comments (2)Your machine has one motor. It has a shaft on both ends. One end connects to the transmission to drive it for agitation and spin. The pump attaches directly to the other end of the motor (at front of the machine). The pump runs whenever the motor runs. During agitation when the motor runs 'forward' the pump is forcing water back into the tub. When the motor reverses for drain & spin the pump sucks water from the tub and sends it out the drain hose. One way to test if the pump is the source of the noise is to take the pump off and run the machine in both agitation and spin to see if the noise is present. You'll have to jumper the lid switch connector to run it with the cabinet removed, or reassemble the cabinet to test. The machine won't normally agitate without water, but there should be one particular position on the timer where it will for test purposes (the lid probably must be closed). Sometimes it's at the 2-minute mark in the normal cycle. I've also seen it at a certain point (unmarked) in one of the Off sections. However, as I said, the pump runs ALL THE TIME when the machine's motor runs. So theoretically if the pump is the source of the noise, it would also make the noise during agitation. If the noise occurs only during neutral drain and not during spin (the motor & pump run in the same 'reverse' direction for both), then the problem may be in a part of the transmission related to the neutral drain function....See MoreAaaah. The soothing sound of running water.
Comments (5)Oh, boy, can I empathize with you! We moved in June 13, and shortly thereafter our well stopped producing water! It took 2+ weeks to get city water piped up our ridge. We bought new garbage cans and our DSIL brought them full of water a couple times a week. We bought drinking water, used paper plates a lot, heated water on the stove to do dishes, and flushed with a bucket. He even made an emergency run once to save my hostas, as we rationed out a half gallon each. This was while I was still in a boot with a broken ankle . . . so he and DH had to water them . . . as I directed them toward the ones I most wanted to save. We actually cheered the workmen when we saw them testing the new water lines!! I can see you doing the Happy Dance all the way from here!...See MoreTankless water heater - not enough water pressure to run it?
Comments (37)@Karen Williams This is the control panel on my tankless water heater. Water Set Point ... the output temperature the unit feeds into the hot faucets ... can be set in 1°F increments between 50°F and 140°F. Temp Up and Temp Down buttons adjust the Water Set Point temperature. Then press Temp Set to make it the normal at-all-times temperature if desired ... otherwise the adjustment is temporary and will revert back after a number of minutes. I have 103°F as the "normal" temperature and raise it when needed for washing dishes or clothes, without pressing Temp Set, and it reverts back to 103°F after 30 minutes so I don't have to remember to do that. That's just how my unit works, they're not all the same. Setting the temperature "at the faucet" means I set the water heater to the temperature of heated water I want/need "at the faucet" ... such as 103°F for a shower, instead of 120°F or 135°F which is much hotter than needed for a shower ... and I turn on only the hot faucet (or set a single-lever faucet to full-hot with no cold mixed-in). Thus, the tankless unit has a high-enough flow rate passing through it for the duration of the shower to insure it doesn't shut off due to too-low flow. 120°F, 135°F, 140°F output temperature requires mixing in cold water and turning down the hot flow at the faucet to get a comfortable shower, which reduces the flow through tankless possibly below the required rate which can cause it to shut off completely and the shower goes cold. Remote control panel means exactly that ... some tankless water heaters can have an optional extra temperature control panel installed at a convenient location such as bathroom or kitchen so the homeowner doesn't have to go down to a basement or out to a garage or wherever the heater is located to adjust the temperature. My heater doesn't have a remote control but it's located in a broom closet in my laundry room behind the kitchen near the center of the house so is easy to access any time I want to change the setting....See Moreasolo
16 years agoron6519
16 years agocoolvt
16 years ago
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blondelleOriginal Author