Bill, Did you think I was finished asking questions??? Of course not. Tomorrow I'm sealing the grout. I have a white cast iron tub I want to protect. Should I put the plywood over the tub while I seal? Would it be better to take off the plywood and try and cover the tub with towels. SCI said I had to spray it on and not roll it or use a rag. It will run down to the tub so how do I protect it? Will it damage the finish if it gets on the bathtub? I know this is a simple question but look what happened when I got involved with my grout application. Donna

Although it is a common "Jury rig" fix, Code does not permit the use of two wax rings. In fact, the double thick wax rings we commonly find in hardware and home supply stores are not code approved. Per Code, the underside of the closet flange is to be in firm contact with the finished floor, which then leaves the top of the flange extended about 3/8" above the finished floor (The thickness of the flange itself.) The concern here is that if the wax seal is too thick, if it becomes necessary to plunge the watercloset there would be a very high risk of the plunging action blowing out the wax seal.In instances such as when additional subfloor material or ceramic tile is built up on the existing floor, leaving the flange flush with or recessed below the finished floor level, the proper solution is to: 1.Reposition the closet flange 2.Add a "Build up flange" to extend the top surface of the flange up to the prescribed level.

Good point. Sometimes the sink overflow produces gas when the sink water is running and draining. When that happens, I pour a splash of bleach down the drain and let it sit. That "wets" the bottom of the overflow with bleach just below the drain flange, which is enough to take care of the smell). Same principle for the tub overflow, but more rare.

@User Those types of valve bodies can be repaired. The stems can be replaced or rebuilt with new packing / o-rings and washers. The seats can be replaced with a seat removal tool. I did it all the time. That said, I completely understand your argument. In my upcoming bathroom remodel on my 1943 home I fully intend to replace the valve body (and all of the galvanized supply lines). However, this is a home with a basement that makes it all easy. I have the budget and I intend to live here for a while. I will do my tub also. Keep in mind if you replace the tub, you are now into redoing the floor as well. The new tub will not match the footprint of the old tub. OP: Understand that this is normally the time to update the valve body - and there are good reasons to do that including a more updated appearance, scald prevention, reduced future maintenance, etc. You can opt not to depending on the cost.