tankless hot water heaters with recirculation
AlphaG
13 years ago
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13 years agowisehvac
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Instant hot water, large house tankless water heater
Comments (18)After ours was installed I stumbled across a company that makes an all in one unit called Eternal Hybrid (link below). You may want to contact them and see about getting the energy efficiency specs to go that route. I think Navien also makes an all in one system now too. I would think either company would be able to give you more accurate energy specs and better answer your question. The other thing to keep in mind is that without the loop (& pump), you are in effect wasting gallons of water waiting for the hot to kick in--think showers, sinks, etc. How much does the water wastage cost in terms of both water & sewer bills + the unnecessary waste of a resource? In addition to washing machines not pulling enough water through at a time to trigger the heater and then remain on long enough to actually get the water down the line to the machine, some dishwashers are having problems too. Here is a link that might be useful: Eternal Hybrid Hot Water Heater Site...See MoreFL Washer and tankless hot water heater
Comments (7)I had an LG guy come out this morning, and he said that the thermostat was causing the problem; temperature settings are lowered on the 2250 CW (CW = cold water). So looks like Georgect was correct! He said that adding a small tank water heater in laundry room wouldn't solve problem because it would be fighting the thermostat. Suggested that I get an LG washer with on board heater and more water temp options. Fingers crossed:) I'm getting the 2650....See Moretankless hot water heater or traditional for addition?
Comments (2)Does this addition cause your current WH to be undersized? If it doesn't, then maybe a recirculating system would be better. If it does, then you could choose either, but consider the weight requirements of the tank model you may need to strengthen the floor on the second floor. The biggest risk with tank models is the eventual corrosion and a leak/flood. A leak pan should be put underneath that leads to a drain. There are pros and cons to tankless water heaters. If your buying a tankless to save money on bills, considering the initial cost of the tankless, it taks a lot longer to break even. There are plenty more pros and cons I suggest you research. And there are more sites than I listed too. http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/tankless-water-heaters.html http://home.howstuffworks.com/tankless-water-heater3.htm...See MoreDoes Tankless Hot Water Heater = Inconsistent Hot Water?
Comments (36)riellebee So I'm going to rough-in some numbers: Range: 15k btu/h Fireplace: 80k btu/h Furnace: 75k btu/h (x2) = 150kbtu/h water heater 200k btu/h (x2) = 400k btu/h Total potential load: 645k btu/h - again, an estimate. You can check your furnaces if you want to be be sure. is it likely that you would have enough things on at the same time to exceed your 425k btu/h service? - Yes, it's quite likely. What happens when you exceed the capacity of the service? The gas pressure drops and the range and the gas logs will just not run at full capacity - no big deal. But the things like the furnace and water heaters will throw error codes showing low gas pressure. The water heaters are likely to have that problem anyway, because at 30' of 3/4" pipe they are only getting about enough gas to run one of those heaters full tilt (the water heaters are variable input). The meter may be 20' away, but in actual length of pipe it's probably close to 30' including elbows. I can see close to 10' of pipe in the photo. The fact that the return line for the circulation isn't warm suggests it's not working. Fix that and insulate your pipes and your immediate problem will probably go away. BTW: Insulating the pipes is not expensive or difficult. Foam pipe insulation comes in 4' sections that just snaps around the pipes and uses self adhesive strips to hold it closed. It cuts with scissors. Even if you just did the exposed pipes in the basement you would reduce a lot of heat loss. My guess is that the builder can't really fix the "over-subscribed" gas service at a reasonable cost. One solution is to use a different water heater. A hybrid tank/tankless would solve the problem. The link goes to an AO Smith Vertex 75 gal water heater 100k btu/h and is 92% efficient and vents with the PVC vent pipe you have. I'm not particularly endorsing that brand - just using it as an example. It would provide you with plenty of hot water (you could run 1 shower continuously) and would reduce your BTU load by 300k BTU/h (gas service problem AND undersized gas pipe to water heater solved). In addition, because it's a tank of hot water - along with about 6' of hot water in the pipe - your wait would be significantly reduced even without a circulation pump. It sucks for your builder because it would cost them about $3500-4000 to fix it. They could probably realize some salvage value from the tankless heaters - say $1000-1500. But If they are only out $2-3k total I'd say they should consider themselves lucky....See Morebeth9
13 years agozl700
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12 years agoArthel Martin
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8 years agoRedy Temp
7 years agoionized_gw
7 years ago
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