We used 16" uppers so as to be able to keep a small microwave inside. No problem with loss of air space. If you are placing recessed cans over the edge of the counter, you may want to move them out an inch or two. Otherwise the deep cabinets have worked out just fine.

Mine are going to be 14" deep based on feedback from this forum. I asked about this too and received several responses that it works beautifully.

After measuring my platters and big bowls, I'm going with 14'' uppers.

Sherriz- your KD's suggestion is good. Furthermore, we are planning 15" uppers, and will bring the base cabinets out 3" also. However, the base cabinets we are ordering will still be the standard 24" deep, but just be 3" away from the wall. The countertop will be 27" + the overhang, which will be about 1.25" (overhang is that 1.25" depth regardless of whether countertop is 24" or 27" deep). That way, we get the advantages of the deeper uppers, more countertop space, and no "air space" problem as you put it.

We are doing exactly what alwaysfixin explained. My range sticks out more than I would like so I am having the gas line moved so it can go all the way back to the wall which still leaves it about 3" out of line w/ the counter so the base cabinets will be installed 3"forward. My KD suggested the 15" uppers to make up for the 'air space'. We haven't installed yet but it sounds like a great idea and glad to hear others thinking the same. I am also having the cabinet above the frid ge installed forward to meet it's body. This is all on the same wall so I thought it would help balance having the adjoining cabinets forward also.

I didn't have room to pull my cabinets out -- my aisles are already narrower than most here would prefer. While I was okay with them as they were, I didn't want them narrower. My cabinets (Brookhaven) come standard with 13 uppers, and I do like even that one inch more. I put some larger platters on their side with cutting boards in a deep cabinet with vertical dividers instead of dedicating a cabinet width to them. Another option to consider.

I did use 15" uppers on the hutch in our breakfast room and it's just enough to put one more row of glassware in the narrow cabinets. We pulled the bases out 3" from the wall to make them 27" and I like the balance of that -- especially since the uppers come down to the counter on the sides.

I went with 13" uppers and they work great for us.

For those of you who have 14" uppers, how deep are your counters? 24" or deeper? For those of you putting 14" cabinets in, will you keep your counters at 24" depth or make them deeper?

My counters are the standard depth...24" deep cabinets w/25.5" counter depth (includes the approx 1.5" overhang past the cabinet box.) [I have 15" deep upper cabinets.]

14" are normally more expensive than 15" so be sure to ask which is the highest price. 3" increments are the norm.

Mine are 15" uppers, all of them, above 24" lowers and we have no issue with loss of work space. We love them and I'd never have less deep cabinets again.

Resurrecting a very old thread, I know...

I get that 15 inch uppers is great for large serving platters, etc, but if you put other things in there, e.g., food items (baking soda, flour, vinegar, etc), how in the world can you find them in the cavern of such a deeper cabinet? I think it would be too hard to reach an upper pull-out, so is there any other way to organize such deep uppers? Or just make sure I only use them for plates/platters/bowls/glasses/mugs? Things that are big enough that I won't lose them...

15" isn't that deep...I have no problems getting to the items in the back...but I don't put much food in my uppers, just cookbooks, dishes, glasses, very small appliances, water bottles, my "tea shelf", lunch stuff (peanut butter, granola bars, etc.).

An advantage of deeper uppers if you're short is that the items in the front of the cabinets are 3" closer to you and should be easier to reach. The items in back, while 15" back, are no farther away than standard 12" deep cabinets.

Only 4 of my 8 upper cabs are 15" deep - I wish they all were that deep!

Will you have a reach-in, step-in, or walk-in pantry? Pantry cabinets? (Personally, I think pantry cabinets are too deep at 24"....but 15" is fine.)

My step-in pantry has 12" & 15" deep shelves...they're fine as well. My old pantry had 18" deep wire shelves - those were too deep & a nightmare b/c of the spaces b/w the wire - difficult to put narrow things in straight and if anything spilled it went all the way down...getting all over the shelves and items on those shelves below the spill.

15" upper cabinets are a great way to increase your storage space in virtually the same footprint. I'd also recommend increasing the depth of the base cabinets to at least 27", not just pulling the base cabinets forward. I'm doing that in one of my new displays in the showroom to showcase how you can build in a standard depth refrigerator, but I'm doing 30" cabinets on that wall. Dynasty will increase the cabinet box depth, as well as the drawer depth. Yes, it's an upcharge, but the "found" storage will be a permanent part of your new kitchen forever.

Before you commit to these cabinets, which will take up more space and will cost more money, ask yourself what options you have. For example, here's how I store things in my current kitchen:

- Small platters (things I might use for just my family; i.e., a platter to hold a roasted chicken) lay flat in a top-cabinet. I have to use a stool to reach them, but that's okay -- they're kind of an every-two-or-three-weeks item.
- Large platters and serving pieces (oh, I have a ton of them) are stored in the lower level of my buffet in the dining room. These are used infrequently, so I don't mind walking into the next room to get them.

In my kitchen I'm planning, however, I'm planning a nice bit spot in the plantry for my larger platters and serving pieces. I'm going to have my platters standing on their side rather than stacked as they are now -- that'll mean I don't have to lift out half a dozen heavy bowls to get to the platter I want.

The point: If this is your only reason for "going deeper", and if you have a choice, I'd store these items elsewhere rather than go with specialized cabinets.

Deeper walls tend to be reasonable and often worth it. I rarely end up with deeper base cabinets- sometimes only one or two drawer bases, always check what the stuff stored is and relate to price. Also I check aisle clearances which shrink as counters get deeper but should increase as things that pull out get deeper.

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread on deep counters/cabs with rough costs

I find no problem at all locating items on the first two shelves of my 15'' uppers. Remember you are looking at the shelf at eye level, not from above as is the case with base cabinets. Also, I suspect most of us store dishes and glasses and such in the upper cabinets. Their varying shapes and heights make locating items simple.

On the top shelves, which I have narrowly spaced, I have larger items like casseroles and platters stored unstacked which I can easily locate since they pretty much fill the shelf from front to back and are therefore easily visible.

I guess if you stored spices, for instance, it would be a problem. But the answer to that is to plan some other, appropriately designed space for canned goods and spices. 12'' deep cabs would be equally as difficult as 15'' for such.

Bellsmom, what do you mean the casseroles and platters are stored unstacked? Can you post a picture?

And I guess the solution is to only use uppers for bowls, pans, platters, etc, and nothing little!

Thanks all.

Here is a picture of how my platters and cookie sheets are stored above my pantry.

I have 15" uppers and like the others mentioned LOVE THEM! We ended up with ours by happy accident. We went to install the 12" deep uppers that came with the set of cabinets we bought. It was a former kitchen display. Anyway, we still have a soffit and it turns out that soffit is 15" deep. Ooops! Neither of us thought to measure it, just assumed it was 12". So, DH built me some cabinet boxes to match the depth.

I just have the regular 24" lowers.

Olivertwist
I certainly agree with nearly everyone else who said they love their 15'' uppers and do not find them intrusive.

Here's a link to a thread I posted a while back on retrofitting super susans in a CORNER 15'' wall cab.
Notice that although the corner cab is 27'' deep from front edge to back corner and 32'' diagonally from corner to corner, EVERYTHING is easily accessible and there is very little waste space. Although I store mostly dishes here, it would work just as well for bottles and cans and spices which would also be easily visible and accessible.

I urge you to add susans to corner cabs, both wall and base. AND I urge you to carefully design the largest possible susan to fit your shelves. So often cabinet installers just stick in a standard size that can waste huge amounts of space.

I will post pics of the way I configure shelves in the regular wall cabs as soon as I finish the current retrofit which involves adding two more shelves to the most used cabinet. It may take me a week to get the new shelves cut, edges stained, and then installed.

Here is a link that might be useful: corner susans in 15'' uppers

Thanks Bellsmom, that was helpful.
I won't have a corner cabinet in my uppers, but it's interesting to think if a Susan would help organize the upper cabinet anyway. I can't help but think it wastes space, though, even if more organized. I wonder other than pull outs if there are other ways of organizing uppers and making them more accessible.

Would love to see your other pictures later when you get to them, too!

I agree that a susan would not be efficient use of space in a straight cabinet run. Not at all.

Pullouts are tricky on shelving that is approaching eye level or just above. I am not sure that they would increase visibility unless they were meshed bottomed and you could look through from the bottom. Of course they allow you to peer in at the sides when you pull them out.
If they are below eye level, you could see down on the area and that would be helpful.

Here is the cabinet I am reorganizing. It is above the DW and slightly to the right. Daily dishes go straight from DW to this cab. The photo was taken at eye level.
{{!gwi}}
1. 2 full depth shelves
2. 2 adjustable helper shelves that are about 4 inches shallower than the cabinet.

Advantages of helper shelves:
Only identical items are stacked. I never have to move something off a stack to get to what is below it.
Disadvantages of the helper shelves:
the legs in the center get in the way of items stored beneath them.
they could hold almost twice as much if they were full depth.

Well Duh! solution:
Cut two more shelves, finish the front edge with matching paint or iron-on edging tape, and adjust all four shelves for most efficient height (minimum waste above each stack.)

Notice that only like items are stacked. In addition, with the new full depth shelves taller stacks of smaller items like the saucers can be shortened into two stacks, one in front of the other. The grabit bowls will fit in two stacks one in front of the other.

Notice that seeing to the back of the cabinet is not an issue if identical items are placed in rows.

Probably a whole lot more than you wanted to see here, but I will post a pic of the same items stored on four shelves instead of two shelves and two helper shelves when I get it done. I am curious to see if it will hold as much more as I think it will.

LOVE IT. That makes perfect sense.

Or I could do 4 platters on 4 shelves.