I would rethink using Miscanthus. I doubt it would be adequately hardy for you. Most cultivars are only rated to zone 5, some only to zone 6 or 7. It is also a sun loving grass, so does best out in the open and unlikely to thrive where it might receive much shade, like on the edge of a wood. And many cultivars do not set viable seed and those that do would not necessarily come true to form from seed. Ornamental grasses are not very likely to be very efficient at deflecting any weeds creeping in, either. You would be better served by clearing out the weeds manually from an appropriate depth of planting area, leaving just what native species might be present and then plant the border between the lawn and the woods with woodland plants of your choice. I generally recommend keeping a "no-man's land" of a couple of feet or so clear before the added plants are located as weeds will always return and that empty space will allow you to get back there more easily and keep things cut back. Once or twice a season should be sufficient.

Miscanthus is a warm season grass, meaning that it puts out its growth during the warmest part of the year - summer. Warm season grasses trend to be difficult to establish late in the season in this area as the roots stop developing about the same time the plant starts to flower and set seed heads so the suggestion is not to plant, transplant or divide very late into the year. Spring, as you begin to see new growth emerging, is the best time to move but you could do it now. Like right NOW, provided you take all the necessary precautions about transplanting in hot, dry weather. If you can't do it right away, then wait until spring. Large OG's like miscanthus can develop large, dense and heavy rootballs so be prepared to exert a little effort to get this guy moved. As with any in-season transplant, take as large a rootball as possible and get back into the ground ASAP. Water well. Cutting back is optional at this time.....I should think it would be somewhat easier to transfer with less top growth but personally, I'd be inclined to leave the plant pretty much intact. Less stress to the plant to have all its photosynthesizing abilities in place at time of transplant. If you wait to move until spring, of course all the top growth can/should be removed.

LOL!! NO miscanthus requires staking so not sure what that's all about. The issue with many silver grasses in colder climates is they are either borderline hardy or so late to set flowerheads that they do not develop well before winter sets in. Two to consider that might perform best in your area are 'Sarabande' or 'Malepartus'.

LOL!! Heruga, you crack me up with your requirements for your plants :-) They are not pieces of furniture and do what they do as they please.....not exactly static beings. You would find things so much easier if you'd just go with the flow. But we've had this discussion before :-)) Check out M. sinensis 'Silberfeder'. The name means 'silver feather'. The flowerheads emerge with just a blush of pink - barely noticeable - and then turn silver and remain silver. The foliage also doesn't develop much color in fall - unusual for miscanthus - just turns a dusty straw color. Gets pretty tall though, so plan accordingly. That's about as close to a pure silver as you are likely to get.