Yes, I did monitor the temps around the garage. It has been 10F-15F at nights, but the temps in the garage stayed above 35F. With all the lights on the stand the temps there were plenty high enough to germinate all my seedlings. A thermometer setting directly on the cardboard and between the seedling trays stayed around 75F. I started 1000 seedlings this year over a period of about 30-40 days. They are all outside now in the full sun and in a small heated, portable GH. I take the doors off the GH when the temps get +50 and cover the whole thing with a solar pool cover at nights if the temps are going below 25F.

The advantage of LED's. light shines in one direction so if all the led's are pointed in a narow range forward, then most of the light will hit your trees. The life expectancy of the LED bulbs are 50,000 hours but the electronics in it probably won't exceed much over 6000 hr. You and I loose. The multi color lights is largely a gimmick. Single color bulbs are less efficient than all spectrum bulb. So lets put all the diodes in all spectrum instead of having a group of one color combined with a group of other individual colors. Citrus trees are slower in winter because of many reason with one being less light. trees are genetically coded to sow down to day length, decreasing solar angle, light wavelength shifts as the solar angle changes through out are seasons. BR40 CFL - 23 Watt - 120W Equal - 6500K Full Spectrum Daylight this is the best bulb for your trees and will look good in you living area. check out this company's link and check out Home depot or other for equivelent. If you value time and don't mind reasonable sipping cost than just get the above. Home depot may have a 6 pack going for much less. They may not. Kroger's will rip you off on these. No rush you have 5+ months left.

Hey Jeff_H, the distance of the light to the plant is also something Ive been trying to dial in, While it seems counter-intuitive to put the lights so far away, Im trying to find the balance between distance and interference with natural sunlight. Maybe Im wrong with this, but the sunlight that comes through 50% of the time is much brighter than the LED will ever be. When I position the LED spot very close, you can see a noticeable shadow from the overhead light diffusion created by the greenhouse(even when it is foggy). After looking into supplemental light, i noticed most other big greenhouse producers use LED's in a way that is unconventional to indoor grow operations and position the lights at a significant distance. (See photo from commercial greenhouse) I have the cords configured so its easy to drop the lights but the focus becomes VERY limited to a small central circle. these are advertised as LED spot lights so Im not expecting a lot of output. Just enough is what im looking for.

Pagan- I had the same concerns that you mentioned, that is, excessive heat from the close lights, cooking the leaves. Honestly, I didn't think the CFLs would produce enough heat to scorch the leaves, but I was wrong. This is always a dilemma....move the lights away from the plants and the lights become worthless....more them close and dry out the leaves. I wonder if the extra, drying heat, generated by the CFLs, could be minimized by pointing a small fan towards the plant's leaves? You noted that my plants have already been set back by the bare-rotting and dehydration that was necessary for the braiding process. If the leaves continue to fall off, and, are now, no longer a factor, do I still keep the lights close to the tips of the stems where new leaves will sprout? The roots after re-potting into a gritty medium, will get some bottom heat. Sorry for all the questions, but this will be my first time trying to keep a braided Adenium alive and well, through a NYC winter. Frank