OK, I stand corrected. I didn't think oak root rot was a big issue anywhere in the northeast and it is, at least in north Mich. In my area it is apparently not a big problem as when I went Cornell's on-line info source the only thing they offered was about CA peach growing put together by UC Davis. I believe Cornell would have had their own sheet on the disease if it was a big deal here. Of course I Could be wrong. The fact that I've planted a lot of healthy orchards in recently cleared forest in NY in the last 20 years doesn't prove anything, except of course, to me. I'll worry about this disease when it affects me personally. On this forum, it has been only west coast growers who've complained about this disease since I've been participating- for whatever that's worth. On the bright side, this mild controversty fueled partially by my ignorant assertion has helped inspire some useful research. However, if I was going to plant an orchard on a site I was concerned about, I'd go straight to my local cooperative agent or contact the major agricultural U. in the state. The info you've gotten so far is only useful by suggesting further research might be a good idea. Me, I'd plant the trees anyway, even if it was risky, and see what happens. Here's part of the page I found. As I said, it was posted by UC Davis in CA as a service to CA growers. Most of the info I saw in my quick search was about growing fruit in warmer areas, which is what you are hoping to do. COMMENTS ON THE DISEASE The fungus survives on dead roots. MANAGEMENT Avoid planting peach orchards where forest or oak woodland has recently been cleared or where there is a history of Armillaria root rot. All rootstocks can be attacked by Armillaria mellea but some are less affected than others. Maintain the vigor of the trees to help resist Armillaria attack. Infested sites can be fumigated, but often this procedure will not prevent recurrence of the disease. Physical barriers to contain infection centers have been used successfully in orchards. Four-foot trenches are dug around the infection center and plastic tarp is laid inside the trench wall from bottom to top before the soil is replaced. The tarp prevents healthy roots from coming in contact with diseased ones, thus preventing spread of the disease.

Probably black locust. Did you get a whiff of the scent? Sweet, honey-like? (It's one of my favorites.) The leaves are multiple small leaflets on a stem, like a tree version of peas. Now, the large shrubs now covered with white flowers along the roads are the hated japanese honeysuckle. This is the time of year when you can appreciate just how invasive this foreigner has been.

"Do you think I have stayed just because I am afraid to go out "on my own"?" Makes absolutely no difference in the world what I think -- Makes ALL the difference what YOU think -- And from what you've written, it sure sounds like YOU think that's why you've stayed. That you got married on the rebound (oops!), have now realized it was a mistake (OK - smart even), but have stayed out of habit and probably just because it was easier than leaving (understandable - for a while). You now have an opportunity to make a change that is unusually easy. Really, exceptionally easy. Handed to you on a silver platter easy. My advice? Pretend in your own mind for a week or so that you've left him. He's gone, you're staying, and now you're free. Live like you want to live! Go out for walks. Eat healthy. Pack up HIS stuff and take the whole closet for yourself. If you find you like it (I'm betting you will) just keep on going and don't look back.

Thank you so much for your help! I have included the photos you asked for below. Our landscape designer recommends that we keep the supports in place for around one year and take them off somewhere around Nov. 2016. So you don't think we need to ask for a different FPR tree? Are these common enough problems that we might end up with similar issues with any FPR tree we get? Thanks again so much! Here is picture of the full trunk. The split wound is at the very top middle of the pic., to get an idea of how each of the wounds are located to each other. Here is a close-up of the bottom of the trunk. Here is a better picture of the support lumber from the side. And, here is a close-up of how the support lumber is attached to the tree. Just let me know if you or anyone else would like to see any other photos of the tree to give us advice. ~Thanks!