Hi, Viv. I'm ok. I owe you email replies, I know. ;o) Probably not fertilizer related, unless maybe you're a little light on the dosage or long on the interval; or, if you didn't add lime to the soil, you're probably lacking Ca and Mg in your plant's diet, because they aren't found in the MG. This: "... bagged garden soil which has some topsoil and soil conditioners, which leaves it open and well-drained." right away, throws up warning flags. Bagged garden soil is usually sand with a little compost mixed in (the conditioner?). I've fielded dozens of questions like yours over the years that involved using bagged garden soils or topsoil of one type or another in containers, and chlorosis. My guess is it's a compaction/water retention issue. Sun shouldn't cause wilting when the soil is moist/damp, unless root function is compromised. It might if your plant was a recent transplant/repot, but if you started the cutting in that soil, the root system should be able to keep the canopy hydrated. Roots always come first, and the plant won't grow a canopy it cannot support. WE can DO THINGS that make the plant unable to support the canopy, but left to its natural devices, the roots grow, then the canopy. High (actual) root temperatures (90*+) can cause wilting, but it sounds like your plant is barely able to keep the plant hydrated when the soil is cool AND the plant is in shade. If it wilts quickly after moving it to sun, especially if you know the roots are still in the 'safe temp zone', you can be almost certain there are root issues - probably soil related. If you can't repot, I would still use a wick. If you allow a wick to dangle below a drain hole after watering, it will 'fool' the water into thinking the pot is deeper. The water will move down the wick, 'looking' for the bottom of the pot, and be pushed off the bottom of the wick by the water column moving down behind it. Also helpful would be to partially fill a larger container (4-5" deep) with the same soil you're using. Set your pot in that container on the soil & fill in around it. If your soil supports 4" of perched water, and you set your pot on 4" of soil & fill around it, ALL the perched water in your soil will move into the bottom of the larger pot. This will still leave you to deal with the compaction issue (lack of air) but at least the soil won't be soggy. Finally, anaerobic conditions at the pot bottom set up an environment where noxious gasses are produced. Sulfurous gasses, excess CO2, and methane (think sewer gas) all cause problems, one of the symptoms of which is, again, chlorosis. Al

Cole Robbie, Just reread you post. I don't set the cables up in a row. you are right that would not work well. They are run back and forth about 4" apart. 40' makes a bed 45-50 square feet. Then the bed is covered with plastic at night and on cloudy days...maybe half open on medium day. That's how I grew the watermelon in winter/early spring. It couldn't hurt to insulate the bed, use black mulch , or build up a insulated box and put that under plastic. From what has been said so far on this thread, I might be able to grow basil in a sheltered south facing location in a basic cold frame. Maybe put in a hot lamp and add a second blanket on the coolest nights. That has worked with warm season seedlings before. Watermelon, peppers, Tomatoes etc. The other way I saw the heat cable used was in a rain gutter above ground. The soil mass was small and it was in a greenhouse which helped. Has to be a cut and come again type high value crop. Anyway, I have the transplants ready to go and am starting another tray to experiment with. Thanks

Thanks everyone! I've always enjoyed photographing clouds, but more so this past Summer when we were going though our second consecutive year of drought(D4 Exceptional - U.S. Drought Monitor), and clouds were scarce most of the time. Thanks again. Kt

I started the thread because they are finishing the framing this week so still not to late to change the Chantilly lace colour on the cabinets etc. But based on everyone’s input keeping Chantilly seems a good choice but stick with a slightly cool white even sticking with Chantilly for the walls. The blues (like a Chinese blue & white vase) and greens I like are bold not pastels so I think this works.