Susan, I have considered the C-765 but I do like some of the things offered with the C-770 such as the all-metal body and enhanced movie mode. Though my old camera had a movie mode and I never used it. :-/ I loved my c-700 and never considered replacing it. I liked it's bulkier body than the newer 765 and 770 too, the smaller cameras just seem too small in my hands and they seem to get lost in Hubby's huge hands. I particularly liked the area on the front right side that you wrap your fingers around -- it's MUCH smaller on the 765 and 770 and doesn't feel the same at all. However, the 765 and 770 get excellent reviews. When comparing the reviews with some of the other more popular cameras, image quality is often better. I'm now considering holding out for the new Canon PowerShot S2 IS to be released in late June, but I'd really like a camera before that. Another consideration: Our computer is older (Dell Dimensions 400) and I'm wondering how I can upload pictures from the camera to the computer without a USB cable. We will have to add a new board to support the USB 2.0 cable that comes with the camera and I'd rather not do that because we are planning to upgrade the computer anyway, just not right away. We don't have a printer with card slot. Is there any other way??? Jen

Noise. It shouldn't be a problem with macro shots unless they are underexposed or taken when the light is too low without fill flash. Most cameras are pretty noise free at ISO 100, the best cameras for low noise photos are what I have, that whole series, that's one area where they even beat Nikon. I'm talking about the Canon Digital Rebel, the XT, 350, 20D (what I have), and on up. Most point and shoot cameras, even the Canons have noise above ISO 200 and even at ISO 200 you can see it on your monitor if you are shooting low light indoors or at dusk outside. With my camera, I can get nice smooth photos at ISO 800 unless I seriously underexpose. At 1600 and 3200, I get noise, sometimes not bad at all at 1600. It does not show up on 4X6 prints unless it's really really bad but anything else, it doesn't look so good. I got a bunch of noisy ones with my camera this past Saturday because my flash went out, I didn't know it, and got seriously underexposed photos. Threw some spare batteries in my flash and got going again but set the ISO up to 1600 for something else and forgot to turn it down again. Some photos were really bad with noise, I can't sharpen them like I usually do because it just makes it worse. The photos without the flash were salvageable only because I shot in RAW mode. You can buy programs that reduce noise, one of these days I might try to get Noise Ninja Pro; I'm impressed by what I've seen with it, but more money and another learning curve. I don't care what the reviewers say and sample photos show. Unless you nail exposure exactly right, most people are going to get noise at higher ISO's even with the best cameras.

Do you already have glass from a previous system? Check out dpreview.com and look at the camera reviews New releases for entry level DSLRs are: Canon XTi Nikon D80 Olympus E400 Pentax K10D Sony A (EEk!Sony DSLR...)FYI, Konica- Minolta sold its camera division to Sony. There is devenitely rooom for imrovment and and I think they will attemp to make those improvements. All of above mentioned are 10MP and brand new so prices will be high for them. Lens _availability_ advantages go to Canon, Nikon and Pentax with Olympus in 4th place, however, Olympus makes some of the best lenses out there for a good price. They all have there advantages and disadvantages. Olympus iinroduced a new system called 4/3rds and most of the lens releases have been HQ and Very HQ since the first DSLR they released was "Pro" camera, but now Sigma is joining in on the concept so there are now lower priced lenes available. You can use the old OM mount lens but you have to get an adaptor, there cheap on ebay($16). I have the Canon Rebel XT but it sits on the shelf, it a great camera and but its shines in low light situations, high ISO. I am not usually shooting picture in the dark and my other Olympus DSLR make great pictures with the KIT LENSES! The kit lens with the Canon was crap, I ended up buying a new lens becuase it was so cheaply made, actually my wife bought it I just supplied the $$. I test drove the D50 for a few days and it had a serious banding issue. Again they are all good brands it just depends on which one you like the best. Prices for last years model will be dropping soon. If you have a Sams card go over there and look at the E500. Joe

Quote, "actually only two DSLRs have the ability to use EVF: Olympus E330 and the Panasonic Lumix DMC-L1" Actually that is not true..The Pentax K-7, K200d and K-x all feature live view. I have been shooting a Pentax *ist DL (6.1mp) and have just ordered a Pentax K200d to get the "shake reduction", "Live View" and 14.6mp resolution while still allowing me to use all the Pentax lenses that I currently own, going back to the old Pentax screw mount lenses from the late 60's. Now for the original question regarding battery life: Now in regards to the original question regarding battery life: First off, you cannot judge battery life by how many SD cards you have recorded because the number of images you can put on an SD card is dependent upon both the size of the card and what format you are shooting. My Pentax *ist DL will allow me to use a maximum 2gb SD card. With a 2gb card I can record 165 images in RAW format (6mp), 760 in JPEG "Best" mode (4mp), and nearly 2400 images in JPEG "good" mode (1.5mp). Now in regards to the original question about battery life. There are a number of factors that effect battery life. First off, per the table in my Pentax 8ist user manual battery life varies greatly depending upon what type of batteries you are using. Obviously the best battery life is with the special batteries that are made specific to this camera, but the Pentax 8ist will also allow me to use 4 AA batteries so I will only show the comparison of AA batteries. Approximate image storage and playback capacity: AA LITHIUM ION- batteries: (Note that operating temp has a big effect) 23 DegC normal mode 750 images, 50% flash 650, 100% flash 550-Playback 700minutes 0 degC normal mode 670, 50% flash 570, 100% flash 470-playback 470min. AA Rechargeable NiMH 2500mAh @ 23degC 560, with 50% flash 500, 100% flash 440, Playback 470 0 degC 500, with 50% flash 440 and 100% flash 380, playback 400 AA Alkaline batteries: 23 degC 90, with 50% flash 70, with 100% flash 50, playback 140 Not recommended at 0DegC. ................................................. I primarily shoot nature and wildlife photography and I am looking forward to the live view feature because I often shoot macro and very low angles, often requiring the camera to sit right on the ground. Currently I am using a right angle view finder but the live view will make it much easier. On average I shoot about 500 pictures a day and have shot as many as 1500 in one day. When I go in the field I carry 10 2gb SD cards and 5 sets of AA NiMh (2900mAh) rechargeable batteries. While the above table for NiMh rechargeables was for 2500mAh batteries from my experience I find that the 2900mAh batteries perform as well as the Lithium Ion batteries. You can expect to pay about $20 for a set of four AA Energyzer or Duracell 2900mAh batteries and another $20 for wall charger but after having recharged them perhaps as many as a hundred times I find they are a bargain at twice that price. I also bought some generic rechargeable NiMh batteries on Ebay. The ones listed as 2900mAh work fine, but the ones listed as 2500mAh do not perform nearly as well, although they do work well in my external flash equipment and flashlights. When buying rechargeable NiMh batteries be very careful to check the amp/hour rating. They make some AA NiMh batteries that are listed as rechargeable garden light batteries. They are only 1800mAh and while they work fine in those little solar powered garden & walkway lights, they are useless for photo applications.