Hi Gary, I don't know if you're still searching for shower storage ideas but I, too, am looking for something. I thought I had seen the ideal corner shower caddy (freestanding) a while back but now I can't seem to find it. In the meantime, I have found chrome caddies at Frontgate, Target, organizeit.com, and through Amazon. They range in price from Frontgate's $300 version, which is about 48" tall, to the much shorter (24") and less expensive models. Those are $16, $33, and $49, approximately. If anyone has found a good freestanding shower caddy, I'd love to see it. And good luck Gary!

"There is no longer any water showing up on the sheets of paper. Can I eliminate the possibility of a leak in the pipes?" That may indicate that there isn't a leak when the shower valve is off. Leaks behind the wall are rare, but they do occur. You could troubleshoot leaks behind the wall by unthreading the shower head from the arm that comes out of the wall. Crack the shower valve so water starts trickling out of the arm, then close the valve. Now thread a 1/2" cap on the arm (in place of the shower head) and turn on the shower valve. That'll pressurize the plumbing between the valve and the cap. Leave the supply valve on for a while. If water starts showing up within a few hours or the next day, then there may indeed be a leak behind the wall. You can try to get a visual on it at the same time be sliding the shower head escutcheon plate off the arm, that'll allow you to put eyes on the union that the shower arm threads in to. You can also remove the escutcheon plate that covers the shower valve. With the shower head removed, the shower arm capped, the two escutcheons removed, and the water ON, you may be able to see or even hear a mist or spray from any faulty unions. If visibility is restricted, you can also poke a Q-tip or something like that into the holes and see if it comes out wet. But again...leaks behind the wall are rare. I'd be interested in finding out if the floor membrane itself is sloped to the drain. Many installers who use CPE or CPVC membranes improperly lay the membrane flat on the floor, then set sloped mud on the flat membrane and tile on the sloped mud. However, it's a code requirement that the membrane itself should be sloped. Lastly...sometimes these weird water things can disappear on their own over time. Fresh mud beds become wet with their first use, and on these forums we've had a few instances of water behaving badly while the bed saturates over the first few uses. Good luck with it.

Three things that musty old houses have in common: little ventilation, high humidity, and darkness. This is a perfect petri dish for mold to flourish causing the "old house smell".

Chipped tiles like that are unacceptable and if I am reading correctly the tile setter should have address these before the shower door was installed. They need to be removed and replaced. Waterproofing system behind it will tell the extent of the repair but that would be address as well with the proper manufacturer repair, again system dependent. However the good thing is they all appear to be outside the shower door so it should be fairly simple. Silicone mess is just that but is easily removed and redone by the shower installer.