Then it is probably not Ph. Otherwise the plants look fine, it's jut that a few of them have the tendency to spoon in the middle and I didn't know what this was. Who knows... As for Home Depot gizmo...I just got the confirmation that it wasn't really working, certainly not to accurately measure light. I just received another light meter (Analog) which someone recommended on this forum and that seems to be quite reliable. I was surprised to learn that this one uses a tri-stage foot-candle range for precise readings on three scales; so fluorescent light is measured on a different scale than sun light. When I set the meter on fluorescent, it registered exactly 500 ft candles right at the plant level, so the set up I have really is the way it should be. Now I just need to receive my timer so I won't leave the poor plants under the grow light for all eternity, as I have sometimes done...and then get them pale in the middle. And some leaf rings for support...:-) Looks like this hobby is not as inexpensive as I thought it would be but it certainly is fun. On top of that, a few days ago I also got my very first mouse ear EVER! It's embarrassing how exciting this thing can get. :-))))

oh, definitely love the hardware--especially after seeing it with your beautiful range! i love your oven hungryheart!!! hardware ties in so nicely with it, and i seriously wouldn't change a thing. oh..to answer your ?, my hardware was from restoration hardware. one of the few things dh picked, orginally i picked a handle kind a similar to yours called this one called Ephram, a lot of gw'ers have them and fell in love (i like chunky hardware!!) and i was also considering the "bistro" (again chunky!) but dh wanted the hanson ones anyway, glad to see you moved on to your backsplash now lol!

For painted pocket doors I always add a 2 inch wide strip to the pocket edge. This strip blocks the edge of the pocket and also allows the door to stay engaged on a piece of aluminum angle I place on the floor of the pocket. A groove in the bottom of the door runs almost to the 'show' edge. The aluminum stops the swinging cold, and unlike the plastic guides that come with the doors does not scratch the paint. For stained doors with any decoration (panels, etc.) you can attach a strip and paint it black, or order wider doors and rip some of the 'show' edge off. This keeps the decoration centered when the door is closed. The pocket is of course sized slightly larger to account for the extra door width. I saw some kits for doubles to make them close together somewhere, but I have been making them using steel sliding door pulleys and 1/16 inch steel cable for a long time. A couple simple brackets attach the top of the door to the cable to make everything move together. Stops (single or double) can be added opposite the pocket to block light on that edge. Van Dykes Restorers has a number of pulls available for the face of the door. They also have brass edge pulls. Renovators Supply used to have edge pulls and a few face pulls. I have built the locks the last few times I needed them, since outside of salvage there is just not much available that is anything but clunky modern looking.

@chispa, having the integrated counter depth fridge be 26" deep is pretty standard and pantry cabinets tend to be deeper too, In principle, you are of course correct. But we made out lower cabinets 30" deep for extra countertop space (awesome decision; so happy we did that!). So, there wasn't any intrinsic reason why the architect would have had to also pull the tall cabinets forward. And the fridge is integrated, so it is intended to be installed flush in its cabinet. so it isn't like your kitchen designer had some secret knowledge. No, it definitely isn't "secret knowledge" per se. It's just the ability to think on your feet and to recognize how every decision has consequences. The architect absolutely could have skipped this detail and things would still have fit; they just wouldn't look quite as polished. Also, it was their expertise to decide to put these two tall cabinets on that particular wall so that they would frame the range. @wdccruise, I would not do anything like you are suggesting. There always are trade-offs with all of these decisions. If you have the space in the floor plan to pull cabinets forward, and if you are comfortable making the needed adjustments (non-standard countertop dimensions; non-standard end-panel dimensions; built-up back wall or custom cabinet boxes; trim piece behind range; ...), then extra deep countertops are wonderful. Whoever decided on 24" counters as a default really didn't have ergonomics in mind. 24" is good for other reasons (cost and room size), but it isn't good for giving you adequate working areas.