Here's your picture: Like I said, the third url down under the photo that is labeled HTML Code - just C&P it in your post. This is just one lamp fixture per shelf, correct? And it is way to far above the center seedlings because of the high cups on the end. That's why the seedlings are getting leggy reaching for the light. You can either cut those cups down (they don't need to be nearly that big for such small seedlings. Or group them all at one end and tilt the fixture so that it is much closer to the low ones. Not ideal but will help some. But for all those seedlings you really need 2 fixtures hung side to side, right next to each other with the plants centered under them. The light at the ends of the tubes is 1/2 what it is in the center. It also allows you to adjust their height individually as needed. How old are the bulbs? They lose power over a season so fresh ones each year make a big difference. Hope this helps some. Dave

No, I have not been back there, much as I would love to! When we were there, the found that the classic gardens we have all read about were all worth while, even just to be able to picture what everyone else seemed to have seen! We bought a pass for the National Trust Gardens and then planned routes that would take us by several of them each trip.

Very nice extremely rich looking product. Normally offered in Dark kempas, Light, and mixed. Very very formal look...very difficult to keep pristine if young family. Will show wear very quickly if the room is an active room!

At the very least, they should recommend an acid neutralizer. As to the iron, treatment depends on whether it is ferric (particulate), or ferrous (dissolved). You'll need a dedicated iron/manganese removal unit. If any vendor recommends a softener for your iron removal, show them the door. A little light reading about various iron removal options: Oxidation/Filtration: An oxidizer such as ozone, air, or chlorine may be used to react with the iron and force it to become particulate iron that can then be removed via filtration. This will also remove most sulfur compounds. A typical setup would involve the oxidizing unit, a holding tank, then a media filter. This type of system works quite well, but takes some expertise in sizing - you would want a water treatment pro that you trust to help you with this option. Oxidizing filtration media: This type of treatment consists of a sealed tank filled with one of several media. Water passes through and is oxidized and filtered by the media. Most will remove sulfur compounds as well as iron. These are relatively easy to operate and what I would recommend for the average homeowner. There are several different media that can be used: Manganese greensand: water runs through for treatment. The media must be regenerated with potassium permanganate. Care must be taken with dealing with potassium permanganate as it readily dies organic material, such as your skin, a purple-brown color. Some people are quite comfortable dealing with the chemical; others are not. Synthetic greensand: This is essentially the same as option (a) but consists of a coating of greensand on a silica sand core so does not require as much backwash flow. Service flow rate is 2 - 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash flow rate is 12 gpm/sqft. Birm: This media acts as a catalyst to force oxidation of iron. While it does not need to be regenerated, it does need fairly high dissolved oxygen in the water. If your water does not have adequate dissolved oxygen (and it probably doesn't since it is well water), air injection would be necessary prior to the birm. Additionally, birm requires a minimum pH of 6.8. Service flow rate is 3.5 - 5.0 gpm per sqft. Backwash flow rate is 11 - 20 gpm, depending upon water temperatures and desired bed expansion. Pyrolox: an ore that oxidizes then filters the iron out. It does not need regeneration, but needs to be backwashed (to rinse out the iron) at a high rate. pH range is 6.5 - 9.0. This type of filter works very well, but backwash is critical. Service flow rate is 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash is 25-30 gpm/sqft. Backwash daily. Terminox: Similar to Pyrolox, but a proprietary formula . It does not require as much backwash flow rate and is more resistance to a low pH. The particulars are only available from the company that sells it - this means you have to rely entirely on the vendor for proper sizing. Backwash daily. Filox: Also similar to Pyrolox. pH range 5.0 - 9.0. Backwash flow 12-15 gpm/sqft. Service flow 6 gpm/sqft. It must be backwashed daily. Pro-OX: Essentially the same as the previous three. Requires 12-15 gpm/sqft backwash. As with Terminox, specs are lacking information so you'll have no way of knowing if the unit you get is sized appropriately. Katalox-light: Similar in action to the previous four, but is comprised of zeolite, manganese dioxide and hydrated lime. It should be designed for 6 - 12 gpm/sqft service flow atnd 8 - 10 gpm/sqft backwash. For well water, it's a good option as it requires lower backwash. In all cases, media ought to be replace somewhere between 5 - 10 years. If any vendor tells you their media lasts forever, walk away - they aren't trustworthy.