Mortimer Sackler might work. When grown as a climber, its longest canes can reach 10-12 feet, according to the David Austin website. The David Austin website says only that it's "hardy" without giving a zone number. Unfortunately the Help Me Find site lists only default information, so that doesn't help. One thing to consider is that the cement in the porch, as well as the nearness of the house itself in keeping that cement somewhat warmer during the night, might make for a slightly warmer winter microclimate in that spot too than in the rest of your yard. Mortimer Sackler does have some shade tolerance as well as being very low in thorns. It tends to grow rather narrowly upright, also sending out some long, fairly flexible canes that would be good to wind around your pillars. Plant the two roses near the porch and maybe 24-30" to the sides of the posts away from the center, and pull over the canes that want to grow long and help them go up the pillars, probably allowing whatever canes that want to stay shorter remain on the bush to look nice on a lower level. If you are concerned about how you'd paint the posts later, then put up a large-holed decorative metal chain in front of (or slightly to the outside edge of) each pillar. Use a large hook eye to hang it from at the top so you could unhook it and gently lean it out from the pillar to get the paint on the wood when you paint. Use the chain to anchor tie spots you can use to attach the rose to loosely, zigzagging it with as much horizontal action to the outer sides as possible. You might want to get a very long large hook eye to anchor this chain on the ground end too, to keep the rose reasonably steady, especially during periods of high winds. It might be possible to make this work more easily by using two chains for each rose instead of one, and that probably would work just as well in terms of appearance during the winter (or probably would look better). If you didn't like the way it looked or worked, then just take down the chains, and trim the rose's longest canes back slightly into a bush form. The limited amount of time I've had with Mortimer Sackler here in zone 7 doesn't make me an authority on this for your area... but it might be a decent guess that Mortimer Sackler would work out pretty well for you. I do like Mortimer and it stays healthy without needing to use chemical sprays. Assuming you decide that you like Mortimer Sackler after investigating it, you might consider buying four of them, not just two. Use the other two in front of the posts at the two ends, and you'll end up with blooming all along overhead and a sort of open hedging at the base across the entire front. Mortimer Sackler for sure does want to bloom, and for sure it will repeat bloom well in zone 7. If I ever buy another Mortimer Sackler, I'd buy it from Roses Unlimited, where it is available as an ownroot plant (within the "English Roses" group there). Ownroot is also a good idea considering your hardiness concerns; in the worst winter some year, you might have to cut out some dead wood all the way to the ground. With an ownroot, what comes back will still definitely be Mortimer Sackler. If you do go with the 4-Mortimer Sackler scheme, you might also consider planting a small line of low-growing hardy polyantha roses with contrasting color just in front of the Mortimer Sacklers. Some ideas: White Pet (Little White Pet), Baby Faurax, Marie Pavie, Margo Koster. Best wishes, Mary Here is a link that might be useful: Mortimer Sackler information (shrub use size given)

Sharon, re: winning the loto..........I wish!!!lol We had been saving up for a Magnet last year, hoping they would go on sale at the end of the season. But of course, that didn't happen, so when we found this one on ebay, we grabbed it. We saved a $130 over paying full retail, so it was better than nothing. We've since heard that you can get them even cheaper in the States even after paying duty. But we hardly ever go south of the border, so ebay was the cheapest route. I'm sure now, after the fact, there will be sales galore on them......that would be our luck!lol We were talking to a guy yesterday who has a bug zapper, and apparently he feeds the "toasted" appetizers to his pond fish........they love 'em! Another good feature about the Magnet is that it doesn't kill any beneficial bugs like those zappers do. Heaven knows, we need all the beneficial insects we can get! "Them sure are alot of skitters in that mesh bag! Wow, I'm shocked! " Hmmmmm.....maybe we should have one of those contests.....how many mosquitos do you think are in the bag?......maybe not, I don't have time to count them all with a pair of tweezers and magnifying glass!lol Shelley, hopefully your plants will come back and be twice as bushy as before.;^) Are they in full sun? I know even sprays like Raid, they say you can spray on the plants, but you have to keep them out of the sun for awhile after it's done.

I do have a tub. If you are staying with a shower only, not sure how that would work with a curtain, are there some that have a few inches of wall? I would imagine as little as 6 inches may work, if you put the curtain bar at a height that allows the liner to almost meet the floor. I'll steel some advice from Kitchens: put up a cardboard box in the bathroom the size of a toilet (well, a piece to put in front of the cabinet to make it overall the right size) and live with it for a few days. If you end up doing shower yoga to get to the faucet like I used to do, then probably will get annoying pretty fast. Another answer might be the slope of the shower base and type of drain. I know I have used showers stalls with curtains that weren't even full length that didn't splash out, but it was a while back before I was paying attention to such details.

Drop down on this forum and look at the Bathroom Gallery or Country. Tons of photos.