Looking at the manual, I believe that when you use this feature, it applies to all stations, no matter the program. This seems to be the case with most timers. This post was edited by irrigirl on Mon, Nov 3, 14 at 10:33

Thanks, alisande. I keep plugging away on some of my childhood memories. Ex: Bird sh*t & Idiots on FB. I'm subbing in a computerr lab again the next two days so I may be able to post another soon. Thanks for the reminder. Ron

Eric, I wish we had room for a nice screening hedge but the south side of the house is too near the property line. I just hope whoever buys the house doesn't put those tall growing evergreens along the fence. There is not much room between the line and the edge of their driveway. Konrad, we don't like it either. There were some people over there the other day with a truck and a lot of conversation- on the garage side. It made me realize how it will sound with a family living there. Our property assessment actually went down this year! It had been inflated for the past two years and finally something got done about it.

Because I hate spaghetti wiring and rats' nests, I think my foremost consideration in laying out a box is to come up with a "visual design" that will be neat and orderly. If, for example, a panel has only a single long neutral bar, I'll tend to place the two-pole 240V circuits on the opposite side since they don't need a neutral. But I'll also take into consideration where the wires enter the box. The heavier guages that are stranded (e.g., #8 and larger) have more of a mind of their own and don't cooperate as well as the smaller guages in holding intentional bends and angles, so I like to let them take simple, "natural" paths to their terminals wherever possible and minimize the necessity for making sharp bends within the the box. In choosing the best wiring pattern I can come up with, a great deal depends on where the branch circuits come from. For example, circuits served by main panels located in basements very often come predominantly from above (i.e., enter the box at the top). Where that's the case, I like to place the smaller circuits below the larger ones so that the small guage wires have the longer paths with the most bends. With AFCI and GFCI breakers becoming more and more common, I also take into account the runs of the neutral pigtails from these "specialized" breakers to the neutral bar. Not only can those pigtails quickly contribute to ugly box clutter, but they won't always reach a neutral bar from all slots. (And who wants to have to splice on an extender?) Also, many of the AFCI/GFCIs are wider than ordinary breakers, so I try to place them in an area with plenty of space where their "porches" have a minimal impact on other wiring runs and where they don't obstruct access to ground bars and/or neutral bars. To the extent possible, I try to organize breakers in sets representing my idea of "logical groupings." Thus, bedrooms and general lighting circuits tend to end up clumped together, kitchen-oriented stuff ends up in another line of adjacent breakers, while furnace, well-pump, hot water and sump pump are clustered in another segment, and so forth. And, yes, I try to do at least a decent "seat-of-the-pants" balancing across poles, taking into account my best guesses on what things tend to draw power at the same time as well as the actual load demands. It's not always possible to optimize on all these variables simultaneously and I don't consider any of the above to be hard-and-fast rules. When all is said and done, I suppose I'm more of a neat freak than anything else. I really like a box that looks clean and orderly with like-type wires (e.g., neutrals and equipment grounds) running in parallel "visual channels" that are easy to follow and easy on the eyes. I guess we all have our OCD quirks, eh?