When I purchased the used tunnel, I had intended for it to go between the smaller tunnel and the next one to the east. The problem was I left enough space to build another 18 foot tunnel there, not a 30 foot tunnel. The distance btwn the two was 35 feet. That only left me with 2.5 feet between tunnels, not good for air flow or build up of snow. Also, I did not have another space that was large enough to put it that was already in production. In order to put this tunnel in a new location, I would have to have done lots of dirt work and that would have added to the cost. I did have a space that I was wanting to build another smaller tunnel on. It was currently in outdoor production, it was level and ready to go. So, I decided to build over the smaller one. I started this project in November and I knew the ground would freeze and I would have had a hard time getting it built if I waited until spring. So I set all the ground posts, in both locations. Then I have slowly, as weather allowed, finished the big tunnel. I also have established beds in the small tunnel that I am going to continue to use in the big tunnel. I didn't want to loose these wonderful beds. I have worked hard to build my soil with compost and organic matter. Last winter this tunnel was uncovered and we had lots of rain and snow. It was very wet. That would help with any salt build up to flush it out. Also about salt build up, I have heard conflicting reports about this. I have heard a lot more that it isn't a problem. In fact one College professor/researcher presenter said he has never seen a salt build up problem in a tunnel. In addition, I had a few crops still growing in the smaller building that I didn't want to loose. To answer you question about the purlin. There is another purlin that goes down the center of the building. I was unable to put it on because I would have had to walk down the center of the smaller tunnel or hire someone with a bucket truck to come out and help put it on. Also, I didn't want to remove the inner plastic before the outside one was ready for plastic. Now, I have the plastic on the big tunnel, I am going to finish the doors on the big one and take the plastic off the smaller one. Then remove the ribs, add the third purlin to the big one, and then remove the rest of the small one and move it to its new location. About cross bracing, I was wondering about adding that too, but I have contacted the company, Stuppy's and they said they are engineered to not need them. Also, we don't get the snow that you do in the Northeast, so I am not too worried about it. The person I purchased it from lives one hour away and his location was very similar to mine. Top of hill, no wind break and he never had any problems. So I am trusting the company and the previous owners experience with that aspect. Will I add some cross bracing, maybe, just in case. Thanks for the questions. Jay

Maybe this will benefit some people who have wasp problems, I'm sure it will work with yellow jackets and bees to. I discovered this wasp cure quite by accident. My brother had a dead animal in the walls of his house so we were trying to find something that would kill the smell, turns out chlorine and ammonia mixed will attack and kill the viruses that eat dead animals which causes the smell. I was experimenting with the mix and left a glass sitting on my back deck. Now I live in the country, have 3 acres and the wasps have historically been horrible at my house, when I get out of the car and come in side you would think I was dancing from dodging the wasps. I tried all the remedies, traps, sprays etc... but these are only good to kill them not keep them away. I noticed the next day after leaving this chlorine / Ammonia mix on my deck that there were considerably fewer wasps, which was odd. This was 2 weeks ago, I have kept a glass on my back deck for the past 2 weeks and now I might see an occasional one every now and then but it's usually flying away not at me. So if you want to keep wasps away, ie. not have to bother killing them, this stuff works big time. Get some chlorine tablets, you can buy them in jugs in most stores that sell pool supplies, get a bottle of regular household ammonia. Get a glass or I use a canning jar, put in 8 ounces of water and about 3 to 4 tablespoons of ammonia, now drop the chlorine tablet in and stir a couple rounds then leave it sit. (DO NOT DO THIS INDOORS) or if you do stay out for a couple hours. The gas released from the chemical reaction between the chlorine and ammonia is strong and wards off wasps and flies and mosquitos so far. This initial mix will last about 3 days, just stir it a couple times each day, then on the 4th day pour in another tablespoon or 2 of ammonia and stir again, repeat this for days 5, 6 and 7 then it's time to start a new batch. This has solved my wasp problem and I'm sure it will for you as well. Hope this helps

I have a wonderful upscale restaurant that has its own gardens but buys literally tons of my goods. It advertises as buying local and is highly touted. He advertises my business extensively and puts my farm's name all over his menu. It is the best relationship I have with any customer. He calls me up, asks what I've got, and I simply pick and deliver it. I've had nothing but compliments from them. Other restaurants mainly buy my fruit for their pies. I call them up, tell them what I have, and deliver. There couldn't be an easier way of moving a lot of fruit and produce when it's in season. I have a list of customers on an e-mail list---kinda like an informal CSA. I enjoy it, but it's a lot more complicated. As I've noted before, our market is abysmal. You'll put in twelve hours of work and maybe only make $35. It is really pathetic. Brook

I am a little over halfway done rebuilding everything. I am getting good at patching together hoops from a pile of bent pipes. My cordless reciprocating saw is getting some good use. The high tunnel is 26 pieces of top rail; I bought 3 new ones. The rest will be the smashed pipes. It will be lumpy when I'm done, but it will still work. I had high hopes for the sleeve clamps, but they are junk. They rip apart immediately under stress. I have had much better luck by cutting up pieces of 1.5" EMT conduit elbows. They fit over the outside of the top rail. I think I could use the elbows to make an A-frame with top rail quite easily. A gothic arch would be trickier, but by cutting sections of the EMT elbow, I can make sleeve clamps that are angled. I'm surprised I hadn't read anything anywhere about connecting top rail with EMT elbows. It is easy and cheap. A 1.5" 90 degree elbow is about $4. Cut in half, it makes two nice 45 degree elbows. Tek screws hold it all together. If the same EMT pieces were sold as special greenhouse connectors, they would be 10x the price.