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latex or Chalk paint 4 stencil dining table

12 years ago

Hi All, I'd like to redo a blah dining room table. I'm wondering if I can use chalk paint (ie Annie Sloan) and stencil the top. I'm doubting the wax would be enough of a sealer for the top but am also wondering about using her wax then a poly sealer on top of it - will the sealer adhere to the wax? I'm thinking not and that I need to stick with latex paint in this situation. Opinions ? Thanks in advance.

Comments (3)

rafor
12 years ago
Sorry, but I can't help.

Here is a ink to a blog that specializes in chalk paint. Maybe you could ask her your question.

Here is a link that might be useful: chalk paint help
My3dogs ME zone 5A
12 years ago
I have used Annie Sloan chalk paint and love it, and I've also used latex. I don't use poly as I don't care for the look. I have used BriWax that I had on hand in both light and dark brown for my projects and it's very protective.

Are you stenciling a design directly on the (assuming) wood grain table top, or are you painting the table and then stenciling?

On this recent project, I used Ben Moore Symphony Blue latex paint and little jars of acrylic metallic craft paint for the gold fleur de lis. It has the light and dark wax on it for an antique look, in keeping with the age of the piece.

I might save the chalk paint for an item you use without feeling you need to poly it, as it has such a 'soft' look on its own that is very nice.

See the difference in the blue paint color once the dark wax is used? Only the drawer fronts have been waxed in the pic, and all the rest of the blue is just the paint at that point.
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I've been trying some of the chalk paint, mixing my own with Aura and plaster of paris (3:1). I find that my coats come out quite thin, probably because I am treading very cautiously. The second coat went on yesterday. I decided that hopefully they are the thickness of one coat! I do want to rub the layers down a bit and not hit the primer I'd started with before chalk paint came into play. So I'll do yet another of this color, trying to go thicker on the subsequent layers. First coat, I could see the white primer underneath (what you call bleedthrough?). Even with the second coat I could sort of see some white showing in some areas that are more difficult to get good coverage on because they are narrow. I like seeing a little bit of brush stroke. So far, there is none, lol. Didn't want it to look sloppy and unsure of what this paint would do, so I'm probably being too careful! I am liking the look of the paint itself. There was even a little bit of random grit in the last batch but I continued anyway. It will lightly sand off just fine. Think the PoP needed more water. It sets very quickly. Or else some sludge settles if you don't use it all at one time. Not sure yet. The first batch was smooth and creamy but my PoP mix was looser. I had added a little more PoP to the leftover for this second coat, to reduce the sheen more (started with Satin). This post was edited by snookums2 on Mon, Mar 4, 13 at 12:12
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i'm a homemade paint girl myself, and i use plaster of paris in mine as well, only because it was easier to access than the calcium carbonate and has served me well! i noticed there's one key tip missing from this thread and wanted to throw it out there. if you're painting mahogany, particularly old mahogany, especially old mahogany with that cherry red stain color... you'll want to seal the entire piece first, else the wood will bleed into the paint. it sounds like a lot of work and it sounds like it takes away the benefit of no prep work with chalk paint, but it's a miracle worker. i use zinsser shellac, and after experimenting with both, i prefer the clear formula - it's less gloppy. again, not primer, but SEALER. it keeps the stains and who knows what from bleeding through into the paint. it would bleed through any type of paint, not just "chalk" paint. and i've not ventured into the fancy waxes yet. i usually finish with water based poly. Varathane Matte stays really really matte. otherwise if you don't mind more of a satin finish, i like minwax polycryllic.
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Thanks, molly! :) When it first came to my attention, I chalked (ha, ha) it up to just another fad in blogland .... destined to become as hated and looked down on as sponge painted walls. :-D But it's really just the name that is new (20 yrs or so), while the look/technique/mixture are ancient. Not our mixes, since we use latex, but the lime, silica, chalk, etc used then. I also started researching painted antiques (painted back then, not current), and saw many similarities. It's always been around, and many stunning pieces still exist. I'm picky about my goals: to paint pieces that I hope will stand the test of time, and NOT look like a cliche someday .... to take something very unwanted, destined for trash pick-up, and bring out it's beauty for many more years ... and, I will not paint just for the sake of change. I absolutely love wood finishes, but there's certainly room for painted pieces, too. :)
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I think the fact that Annie has pieces in her home in England that were painted with Chalk PaintÃ¯Â¿Â½ over 20 years ago and they still are in daily use is a good testimonial. I have pieces that get moved constantly from show to show to show and if they get smudged or dropped from the truck I take a bit of clear wax and wipe one, wipe off...instant fix. Table tops are different. I still use and advise wax, but in a house with constant use, small children, etc, I would advise the Annie Sloan Lacquer which is different than poly. It soaks into the paint. I think it and roll it on for a great seal. But like ALL hand painted pieces, I treat them with care. Here is a link that might be useful: 3 Oaks Studio
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nutmeger
Original Author
12 years ago
Thanks for the tips - pretty piece!! I was going to paint the table then stencil on top. I don't think the top is solid hardwood but a veneer - it is pretty shiny (or was - I sanded it yesterday) I will stick to latex but have other pieces that I will try Annie Sloan paint on. I plan on picking up some paint today. Thanks also for the link to Shades of Amber. Great info!

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