Does your powder room vanity match your kitchen cabs?
I have one of those very narrow powder rooms:
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and although the hallway is labeled "Back Hall", it's our primary entrance because of the way the house is situated. I'm trying to figure out what to do for a vanity in the powder room. The KD wanted to just put a regular vanity (of same cabinet style as kitchen) in, but I thought it would look too bathroom-y. I did like that they were of similar style, though, just not the whole wall to wall, toe kick style.
I like the renovation hardware Cartwright vanity:
But don't know what size would work best. It comes both in 32" wide and 27" wide. My width is around 35"
My kitchen cabinets are shaker style (house was built in 1939 and we're trying to maintain the character) will be white with a black island. Either carrara or statuaro marble counters. I thought a black vanity might be a better idea, but haven't seen one I liked. I can have the KD put tapered legs on a vanity, but don't know how wide it should be?
I didn't want to go with a pedstal because of the lack of storage space in the room.
Any ideas or pictures of yours?
Thanks.
Comments (13)
sameboat
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Curious: if your kitchen has Shaker cabs, do all the other rooms?
Comments (11)My two cents: Don't worry about matching. Go with themes that please you and seem to flow, but don't stress about everything being the same. We intend to do simple recessed panel Shaker cabinets (slab top drawer, panel lower drawers) in our kitchen remodel. We have a 1911 Craftsman with no original cabs in the kitchen (all dark 1970s pecan with orange formica counters), but all the built-ins throughout the rest of the house have the very dark Arts & Crafts wood Shaker-style recessed doors, and slab drawers with tarnished bronze hardware. The slab drawers are rounded more on the edges and corners than the contemporary ones. Not everything in the house is matchy-matchy; the original doors in the less-formal upstairs, kitchen and basement are 5-panel raised panel painted doors, and there are more formal-looking 1-over-3 raised panel doors in the first-floor entry, living room, downstairs bath, parlor and dining room. Built-ins with the Shaker style doors include a linen closet, window seat drawers, drawers in an inglenook bench, and glass bookcase built below the wrap-around of a fireplace mantle. It's a simple, clean look, and luckily it makes it easy for us to choose kitchen cabinets that happen to be one of the cheaper styles now available. That said, we're not going to stress about matching the wood tones or exact proportions in the kitchen -- budget, availability of recycled materials and whimsy will trump historic verisimilitude....See MorePlywood or particle board boxes on your kitchen cabs?
Comments (36)>>Not sure how you can have adjustable shelves in particle board- (is that a possibility?) Not only do I have 19 yr old particleboard kitchen cabs in perfect shape (Kraftmaid frameless Euro6 line), I've owned painted particleboard bookcases for over 30 years, lugging them around from place to place. And yes, the KM cabs are completely adjustable with pins, no problem. There IS a difference in quality to look for. 3/4" is not as good as 1" (you can see some of the thinner particleboard cubes below show some bowing, although at 19 yrs in the same configuration they have yet to fall apart). And high-density is a lot better than low-density. Here's a photo of a mix of 3/4" and 1" bookcases and cubes. Notice the 2-shelf unit on the bottom LH, of 1" board? One of the oldest ones I have, it has been loaded with those extraordinarily heavy art and coffeetable books for thirty years. If you stacked up all the books that are on one shelf there, it's 30" high and I'll bet no person here would be able to lift them all at once. BTW, ignore the tilt in some of the vertical stacked cubes - we used L-brackets to bolt each individual piece to the wall for earthquake proofing, so it tilted some of the cubes forward as we worked upwards. Also, these are only half of the bookcases; we have 8 full-height teak-veneered particleboard bookcases in other rooms, also heavily loaded, and all over 20 yrs old. I can assure you, having moved these books and bookcases around several intracity relocations, each one of those bookshelves is holding much more weight than is being held on my fully-loaded, 75-lb capacity rollout KM pantry shelves in the kitchen. Lousy quality particleboard will bend under the weight of a few folded sweaters - I can attest to that, I've owned some of it (and had to throw it out). OTOH, lousy quality plywood is just as bad. We also own the "solid wood" Home Depot Masterbath bathroom cabs - what crappy plywood it is! 1/2" ply so flimsy, I was surprised it managed to support the weight of the double sink countertop without crashing to the floor. You'd better believe I'd never stand on the Masterbath cabs - but I have stood on the KM cabs without any problems, and at 230 lbs. I'm not exactly lightweight. The point made about the quality of interior veneers is an excellent one, and far too often overlooked. The interior veneer used by KM in 1989 is far superior to what they use now. I put dishes away wet and even had a six-month slow leak in our sink cab that did no damage outside of a quarter-sized bubble raised in the veneer, no substrate damage. There is an additional cost to using particleboard that should be noted - you should never go over 30" wide without a - I don't know the right woodworking term - front vertical support slat? - to help prevent the shelves from bowing. Plywood can go 36-48" in width, depending upon board thickness and weight capacity desired. Therefore, you should use more, slightly narrow cabs in particleboard, than you can use in plywood. That is the ONLY advantage of plywood, IMHO, coming from someone who has put frameless particleboard boxes through a lot more heavy use than most people ever manage. Being able to use fewer, larger cabs can sometimes save enough $$ to be worth the upgrade cost, for those who prefer plywood anyway. Plywood cabs are lighter and easier to DIY. Installers hate particleboard because it takes 2-3 people to do the install and it's a lot more heavy work. But either material IF of good quality, will be able to last so long you'll get tired of it before you'll see it disintegrate....See MoreDoes your kitchen trim match your cabinets?
Comments (3)My crown matches the white wall cabinets, but I have a cherry island and a hutch as well as a wall of blue cabinets. We put the white crown there too. The reason we kept it all white was to match the kitchen trim to the adjoining breakfast and family rooms. So we have some that is different on the blue wall, but we kept the trim the same ass the rest of the house. Probably doesn't help you much. How separate is your kitchen? Is there a clear dividing line to make a change from white to stained if you paint it?...See MoreHave you used your house crown moulding for your kitchen cabs?
Comments (4)I did. I have a kitchen that is part of one large open space with the breakfast room and the family room. I wanted to take the cabinets to the ceiling and not lose the crown in the rest of the space. We couldn't figure out any way to transition, and I didn't have a different look I had to have on the cabinets, so we pulled the crown in the kitchen down, put the cabinets up, painted new crown to match and put it up. The crown is stacked and about 6" high, so it would be similar to the one above wrapping all the way around -- not smaller over the window. The main cabinets are white, but we have a contrasting wall with a blue finish. I was a little unsure of how it would look there, but I think it looks really good both matching and contrasting....See More
enduring
11 years agopricklypearcactus
11 years agokfhl
11 years agojoaniepoanie
11 years agomydreamhome
11 years agoNo it doesn't have to match the kitchen. Our powder room is identical to yours. Like you, we didn't want it to look too bathroomy either. While the standalone vanities were really nice, our designer pointed out that it would be difficult to get between the vanity and the wall to clean since the space is so narrow. We opted instead to use a wall to wall vanity with a decorative, yet definitely useable/functional vessel sink as the non-bathroomy component. We also had the front of the vanity made a little different--the doors go all the way up--there is not a flat piece just under the countertop then the cabinets.
From the layout drawing, I'm guessing this is new construction vs. remodel. I would recommend reversing the sink & toilet placement. Ours was planned like yours & I kept saying to DH that I didn't want to walk in the door from the garage and see the toilet. DH blew me off, but then when the we met with the plumber, he pointed that out as well & I could've hugged him! So it's now reversed & I see my pretty sink everytime I come in our back hall from the garage. Hope this helps! Here are some pics of our powder room vanity--the first shot is the view when coming into the back hall...
babs711
11 years agorosie
11 years agonini804
11 years agoMy PR looks nothing like my kitchen! My kitchen white painted maple cabinets. My PR has a furniture-type vanity with a polished black granite top (don't know why it looks speckled in the photo...it is just plain black. There is enough room on the sides and underneath it to get a swiffer in there. I am also glad that my toilet is to the right of the door so that the toilet doesn't show if the door is open!
kammererk
11 years agonini804
11 years ago
plllog
11 years ago
Billl