We also have xenons (Kichler, 12v direct wire w/ 18w xenon bulbs - about 7 units installed under our cabinets about a year ago) and, while the cabinets directly above do get warm, they do not get hot. That's to be expected given that these are incandescents and will produce heat that will be absorbed into the cabinets if left on for long periods. Ours are not dimmable but they do have a high/low switch and we keep it on low - unless the lights are being used to illuminate a task. Will they damage wood cabinets? That depends on the wattage, the transfer rate of heat to the wood (which could be influenced by the design of the fixture and/or how it's mounted and the degree of air circulation) and how long the lights are left on. It might be enough to discolour some finishes or even bubble up some veneers directly above the lights (depending on the adhesive used - but I would expect that this would be extreme) but I wouldn't worry about anything truly wretched here - provided the light fixture is not overly enclosed. Last year, I spoke with our cabinet supplier about the choices and they overwhelmingly recommended xenons. FWIW

Igloo, I am so glad you asked! :-) I did not say I don't look at "stuff" at all. It's just not my first priority. People first, light second, structure and stuff last. OP's situation is a great example. Sounds like the designer's argument for her color choices were based solely on her evaluation of the inherent light, atmosphere. It is very important, and it takes a certain skill set, to find the right range of wall colors to partner with inherent light and resulting atmosphere. However, the selected wall colors have to be in alignment with identified client expectations and design goals too. It has to be a combination of people, light, structure and stuff. Isolating and focusing on just one area of that strategy *might* fit the expectations and design goals best -- that can be the case sometimes, i.e. a picture is the focus and the wall color is chosen with that as a priority. Usually, when someone is struggling or looking for that "wow" factor, it is a matter of carefully considering all three areas (people, light, and structure/stuff) to bring it all together and truly design with color so it meets expectations and desires and is overall a good fit for the space. On the back of my business cards, it reads, "I customize environments and create unique atmospheres. Your exclusive color strategy goes beyond choosing pretty paint colors." Designing with color is different from just picking out paint colors. Sometimes just picking out paint colors is good enough, and that is typically, what most designers/decorators do. However, there are homeowners who *know* that there is more. The typical methods of color leave them a bit flat, unsatisfied. The colors in their house all "match" and "flow", but they are never quite right for them. They can't quite put their finger on what's "wrong". All the decorator color tips and tricks were sought out and followed. The room was duly 60-30-10'd, the palette was repeated room to room, the values of the wall colors were kept consistent, they didn't mix warm and cool colors, etc. etc. etc., but it still isn't them, what they envisioned the space would look and feel like. Those people can see the possibilities, feel that color can have more meaning and *do* something for them in their environment. They just don't know how and the staid methods of color simply do not cut it for those people. Sometimes you need to go deeper and more complete. It all depends on individual expectations and tolerances, and defined goals and objectives. Allowing "stuff" to be the immediate go-to method for choosing wall colors is not the approach that I find most consistent, reliable, or successful. Might be the fastest and easiest, but it is hardly the only or best way.

Ok, I thought I should, I was just baffled by the 2nd cabinet maker, he didn't seem that interested after I told him I already had a quote. The first cabinet maker that came and measured is also a GC and wants me to hire him as a GC to change a window and install a door, put in the wood floors and do tile work in the BR (the floor/tile salesman said he has installers). No price from him yet and the cabinet plan was very simple. I've also had someone from Medallion come, liked him, his work and price. Made a couple of changes and he's reworking it now to see the price difference. Medallion has a door I really like so I'd like to get one more medallion quote. I also have an appt next week with a KD for Pac Crest and N Kelly. I'd also like to get one more quote for those two companies as I have a feeling they will come in high, it's from a trendy design center. You're right about these economic times, we are retiring early as a life choice and trying to watching every penny.

Instead of moving the window, why not add another? That's what I did for Plan D, along with a few other tweaks. It's a blend of your Plan A and my Plan A, and a little bit of your Plan B. As always, aisle measurements are counter to counter, counter to appliance front or counter to wall. Starting at the pantry door: "a" is an 18" deep cabinet ala the inspiration pic I posted above [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/shannon-cabinetry-traditional-kitchen-toronto-phvw-vp~73826) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Youngstown General Contractors Shannon Cabinetry with frosted glass or antiqued mirror doors like these: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/mill-valley-classic-cottage-victorian-kitchen-san-francisco-phvw-vp~1357985) [Transitional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2112) by Sausalito Architects & Designers Heydt Designs Next up is a 30" oven installed under the counter. Yes, it's lower than a wall oven but it's higher than an oven in a range and it's one way to gain more counter and that sounded like it was more of a priority for you than oven height. Next to the oven is a 36" range. Not sure if these two appliances can be installed side by side or if you'll need to add a 6" pull-out cab between them. If so, that would be a great place to store spices. Between the range and the must-stay wall are two 26" wide drawer cabs. I evenly divided the space. You should determine cab widths based on your needs. The fridge is on the other side of the must-stay wall. "b" is closed or open storage ala this inspiration pic I posted above: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/victorian-resurrection-victorian-dining-room-portland-phvw-vp~3003779) [Transitional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2112) by Portland Interior Designers & Decorators Vicki Simon Interior Design The island is 8' long and shifted slightly towards the window wall. There aren't any cabs opening into this aisle so a 39" aisle should be fine. The MW drawer is still across from the fridge. Not sure how you use your MW but if it's to reheat left-overs and such, this placement makes sense. I think there's enough room to have fridge doors and MW drawer open without hitting each other but if that's not the case and it's a concern, put the MW drawer in the range wall run next to the must-stay wall. I show an apron front sink in a 30" sink cab, gaining you a bit more cab and counter in the island. DW is where I showed it in my Plan A. Since the range has shifted towards the pantry (and back to being centered on the can light), these two appliances are no longer across from each other. You could still switch sink and DW placement but that will leave you with only 16.5" of counter next to the sink. I shifted the island 2" towards the DR, easing the pinch point you were concerned about by the fridge. This obviously reduces the aisle between island and DR wall but since you plan on enlarging the DR opening, this won't be an issue, IMO. Plus there are only 3 seats at the island, not 4, to avoid pinch points between island and DR wall. "d" is a 15" deep open shelving cabinet for cookbooks or display items like this: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/jordan-peterson-allied-member-asid-traditional-kitchen-omaha-phvw-vp~351956) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Omaha Architects & Designers jordan peterson interior design You could also angle the corner of the island to give you more room between island and back door. Additionally, you could probably increase the counter overhang an inch or two more, or even three inches, depending on how wide the new DR opening will be. The island is all one level, btw. Lastly, "c" is your Command Central housed in a hutch-style cabinet like this: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/inverness-lakeside-cottage-traditional-dining-room-grand-rapids-phvw-vp~444626) [Traditional Dining Room[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-dining-room-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_722~s_2107) by Grand Rapids Architects & Designers Visbeen Architects It will provide a nice view from the DR.