Yeah, I would have waited until they were very orange and falling from the tree. Still, they may germinate. They're about the easiest things to start. Peel off the outside, wash the seeds. Throw them in a pot, water and watch them grow! I wouldn't think you'd need to soak them.

That is a nice chandelier. However, for a small space and low ceiling you might want to try something simpler. Perhaps a large yet simple pendant from Architects & Heroes http://www.archhero.com/ceiling-fixtures/pendants/cloister-pendant-large/ Here is a link that might be useful: architects & Heroes

Are you sure the "Water Seal" you refer to is an oil based (requiring a petrochemical to clean the brushes and NOT soap and water)? Is it "transparent" and has no color listed or shown on the can? There is no need to "strip" or "sand" the Thompson's Oil based TRANSPARENT Water seal Product because the paraffin soaks into the wood and is not on the surface. It has no pigments in it that rest on top of the wood. Therefore there should be no "peeling" or "chipping" of the surface and no obvious wear other than wear to the wood itself, usually near stairs and door and very slight in most instances. If its the Thompson Oil Based Transparent product you used, there is no need to strip or sand. You may want to clean the surface (IF it is visibly in need of it) with something like diluted Clorox Exterior house cleaner to remove pollen, dust, dirt and any surface mildew (mildew spores are transported by the wind and there is always some on the surface, although it probably hasn't "stuck" to it. Its basically a spray or brush on job and rinse with a garden hose. Let it dry fully for at least a day (two is better). then you can apply your new oil based deck product. I suggest you wait at least one full year for the beading of water to stop and even two years is OK. My front deck got the Thompson's two years ago and I will stain it with an oil based stain this year. It requires minimal cleaning....I may just use a garden hose with a firemen's nozzle. The deck gets full sun all morning so mildew is very hard pressed to survive there. Best stain, IMO are oil based TWP. The main thing to watch for is to avoid "soap and water cleanup" because that is a water based, possibly latex deck product. You wouldn't think to put latex paint on your indoor hardwood. Latex wears like crap to foot traffic. A true stain soaks the color deep into the wood and is not a "paint pigment" that sits on top of the wood. The whole problem with deck preservation has been caused by the VOC controversy which tossed a lot of good products out of the market by legislation. The emphasis on water based products opened the door for a lot of "new" water products with "paint stains" which are not stains at all. Unfortunately, those products require stripping because they wear out fast, leaving some areas bare and have adhesion problems as they age. Stripping is more work than the refinishing. ALWAYS google the Material Safety Data Sheet of the product you are considering so you know exactly what it is. Be careful that most big box stores sales clerks are "selling" what the store has in stock. That is why they get paid. The best products used by Contractors are available through building supply vendors that cater to builders and carpenters and not the general public consumer. They do not refuse to sell to the general public, but "quality" is their life blood, not quantity of sales based on huge purchasing contracts supplying a nationwide chain. Wish you good luck. Don't be swayed by the claims of 6 year and 10 year lifespans. If its a water based paint pigment product, it will look like hell for half of those claimed "lifespans", Most people would prefer a true stain that can be reapplied easily without having to strip the deck. And. if you have to strip the deck, how do you strip the railings and balusters? I've done it....took a pressure washer and two days to complete. Then I started reading and wised up on the number of really crummy products that are available, being pushed by big box stores and consumer agencies that prioritize water based over oil because of an "environmental" bias. The idea behind using an initial Thompson's Oil Based Transparent on a new deck comes from a highly ethical, lifelong contractor/carpenter who needed a workable solution for customers who couldn't decide how they wanted there decks treated during an age of great confusion. The Thompson Transparent has an effective anti-fungal and gives good service up to two years. When you compare to other oil based products costing three times as much, many of them also recommend restaining after two years. BTW, oil based paraffin products do not support fungus.

You can replace any part of your lawn you want, and decide if you like it. If you do, you can do the rest the following year, or just leave it if that's all you feel like doing. Dealer's choice. This is your lawn, not mine. :-) It sounds like the Bermuda is the invader and the fescue is what you want to move to. In that case, you'll want to go on a murder spree next June and July, using RoundUp or the like to kill the part of the lawn you want to renovate. It's dirty, it's ugly, and it's not nice. But the earlier you do it, the happier you're going to be in the end because it's going to have to be done more than once. That Bermuda is not going to give up the fight easily. It'll resprout. You'll miss some. And there will be weeds growing. Respray about two weeks after the first time, hitting anything you missed. Then again two weeks later (these are usually easy spot-sprays). Water a bit too, get the weeds sprouting so you can kill them before they sprout from seeding. Through the process, mow the lawn. Sounds crazy, but mow it shorter each time, moving it downward so you don't have to scalp it all at once. Keep mowing it until it's as short as it'll go--you should be able to see soil and, by that time, the old grass is probably rotting away a bit. After that, no special prep is necessary. For you down Tennessee way, planting Fescue is probably a later sort of thing. The rule is to plant when summer's coming to an end and evenings are just getting that first touch of late summer feel. For me here in Pennsylvania, that's actually August 15th or so--earlier than most would expect. So yours will be earlier than expected but later than mine. Were I to guess? September 10th? There will be a window and fescue is not that picky, far less so than bluegrass will be, although I might suggest a good mix with bluegrass in it. Fescues have to be reseeded when they get damaged, they're unable to repair themselves. Bluegrasses are self-repairing if properly fed (that if-clause is, however, quite key to the self-repair). So I do suggest a mix that includes bluegrasses where possible. In TN, it's definitely possible and they'll work fine with fescues, but do take longer to sprout and establish. Drop the seed at the recommended rate. There's no requirement to cover, although many people do find it helpful to apply up to 1/4" of peat moss or very clean compost. It helps retain some moisture in case of irrigation failure or a heat wave, which you're almost certain to get. We go early to give the grass a lot of time to develop roots and store energy, but...well, there's a price for that. Water three times a day. Yep, thrice. And that should be enough to get you started.