I agree with otis AND also would say that any aged coat of paint that is clean, dull & dry could be considered as near-equal to a primed coat. But since no real weathering takes place inside and you have a fresh coat to deal with the rules change. Usually compatible latex products will "knit" together when applied soon after as in a 2 coat system. I would be somewhat comfortable just applying a good quality finish coat over what you've done with the idea to do an adhesion test at some point. Adhesion test: place masking tape [not painters blue] on the finish product a rip it off quickly. Does it pull the top coat off?

Thanks for the input. A pro painter painted the Duration over my builder's white, 2 coats (no primer:( and it looks fine. But a neighbor's kid splattered some watery mud off their hands on the walls and I don 't think its cleaning anything like its reputation. I had the extra paint so did the bathroom in it, two coats over primer, looks good. Low odor going up, went on fine. Just don't know that it was that big a difference between other paints I've used in the past. So I'm not slamming it as bad paint - just don't know that its the big break through that it gets marketed as. Plus when putting up the christmas tree I made a chip in the pain to drywall in it fairly easy. Maybe its my expectations, I had plaster walls in my other old house - this drywall stuff just seems to dent, chip and get holes poked through the paper real easy. And I'm not tough on it, just a sedate 50 year old. I may try the Cashmere just as an experiment. Don't think I can go wrong either way, just to see the difference. Wish there was another BM dealer in town.

Acrylic latex primers are more than adequate for any interior work. A clean dull surface is always the best way to start. However, if you wish to eliminate the sanding, start with clean and a good bonding primer. I prefer Bulls Eye 1 2 3 over Kilz products, but if the Kilz product says it will adhere to glossy surfaces, go for it. Michael

The pine has probably been waxed or oiled at some point, maybe even Pldeged - the worst thing you can do to wood. Remove all of this with a good wash using tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) per manufacturer's directions. Apply a coat of highly-pigmented stain-blocking primer like Kilz or Zinsser to keep any pine resin residue from bleeding through the new paint. Again, carefully follow the directions on the can. Then a good water-based zero-VOC washable interior finish paint. Question. Why not pull the paneling down and put up sheetrock?