Well, some do it all types are actually not bad painters, but this is very, very rare. Anyway, whether or not you spray or not really doesn't matter. A pro uses the sprayer to get the paint on faster. Whether or not it is sprayed, the actual paint gets rolled no matter what. We call this backrolling, meaning application of the paint with a sprayer, then physically rolling the paint while it is still wet. If you just spray it on and leave it, it's fairly likely that the paint will dry uneven and look crappy. The roller helps to even everything out. The only time I would spray walls or ceilings and not backroll is if there was a heavy texture or popcorn, which would disguise the uneven look you may get on smooth drywall.

Either will work. My builder uses a sprayer but they don't last long as they tend to clog. The roller will work but you need to be careful to not roll too fast or you'll create bubbles. If you spray, you need to craft something to block the areas where you don't want the spray to go. Use a piece of cardboard or something to act as an edger, but for sure, it is a two person job. Also, don't forget to use a sealer that has some form of anti-slip to it. BRICKFORM Safety-Seal is one such product. It has anti-slip in it and results in a nice low-sheen look. Our deck was sealed with the Brickform product in March of 04 and it still looks great. Jeff

I don't know just what kind of results you got with the Behr paint+putty nor do I know just how smooth you want it to be. But, I had a similar decision to make last year and I considered FPE Putty. (btw, many related threads on this subject in the kitchen and paint forums) Anyhow, I applied two liberal coats of Benj Moore All Purpose primer and some sanding followed by 2 coats of B.M. Aura satin paint. I can still see grain at an angle with good lighting, but overall, the 20 year old builder oak cabinets went from a "2" to a "8" with not an extreme amount of effort. That was totally acceptable to me for the time and effort I was willing to expend. The room was transformed (with the help of some new SS appliances!) and I love it! You may want to experiment with a hybrid-compromise approach before going with the FPE for sure. just my $.02

If you are using acrylic paint, it's very hard if not impossible to brush out a door, or any large surface, and have it come out looking good. You should either roll the door and leave it or roll the door and brush out the rolled paint. Modern day paints just dry too fast. Aura is a good product for rolling and the Aura extender you can buy to increase the open time is also good. Regal is not really a good product for rolling...it does not self level as good as the Aura. Also, this does take practice. DIY'ers and homeowner painters have 2 tendencies. They do not put enough paint on and they overwork the paint. The key to getting paint to look good is to put the paint on heavy and then leave it. After 15 second have passed, do not go back into an area that you have already painted. Try a 4" Wooster Pro Dooz sleeve, 3/8" nap or even 1/4" if you are afraid that 3/8" is too big. The pros always tend to use bigger naps than the homeowners. Try not to get frustrated...painting these days is hard! This is why I try to spray as much as I can.