Thank you for your responses! I also e-mailed customer service at Preen and got similar responses. They said I could spread activated charcoal to deactivate the preen, but in looking again last night I didn't apply a very heavy dose and not very near the base of the corn, more in the aisle, so I guess time will tell! Thanks, again! SB

I too got a split home with no landscaping 3 years ago, and it's been a pleasure getting out and mucking about, adding new things (going from 0 to 18 hydrangeas - haha). Some initial recommendations and observations of mine are: - you are in zone 7, so you can overwinter almost any type of hydrangea with little or no bloom impairment - use sites like "hydrangeasplus" for reference on sun tolerance of over 100 different cultivars - paniculatas (quickfire, limelight, etc) are said to need at least 5 hrs of direct sun to bloom well - most of mine (all types) seem to like at least 5 total hours of sun; anything less results in growth and bloom impairment. - "west wall" is the worst location by far for most, because it can get deep shade 'til at least noon-ish; I tried an Endless Summer here and it didn't grow a full leaf back until the end of May! - arborescens (annabelle/bella anna) can tolerate all-day sun, as can similar-behaving macs like "dooley" - "florist hydrangeas" ($10 in 4" pots on holidays) can get 4-6' big and should do well in zone 7, but may need to be placed outside in progressively sunnier locations until they can take intense natural sunlight/heat - dwarf varieties (not exceeding 2-4' big) are available in about all types of hydrangea. For macs, I recommend the Forever&Ever and Endless Summer lines, which bloom on new wood and come in different colors. Proven Winners Cityline - different colors, old wood only. Lemon Daddy is a mac that grows 4x4' and offers near-yellow leaves and lavender blooms. Paniculata and oakleaf also have dwarves that look similar to the full sizes.

Heythere, Mike. Hopefully you've gotten the Colocasia storage thing squared away from the excellent advice above. You can also do dormant storage like this with Caladiums, Cannas, Gladiolus. There are also vines that can tolerate dormancy in a dark, cool, dry place, like Mandevilla and Bougainvillea. Not always successful, but nothing lost if you had the plants anyway and are just trying to save them. Among hardy plants, look for unusual and especially large foliage, wild color, growth habit. Covering the trunks of mature trees with desirable vines like climbing Hydrangea and dutchmans' pipe can add to the look. The more closely you pack things, the more tropical it will look. Avoid pastel flowers, which can make it look cottage-y instead, and go with lots of red, yellow, bright fuchsias, in jumbles, not what appears to be a thought-out plan. Make use of seed vines and annuals that compliment your look, and wild-looking fast-growers like Perilla, Coleus, sweet potato vines, Persian shield, castor bean, and veggie plants that have a striking appearance. Peppers originate from the tropics afterall. Then there are micro-climates, my favorites of which involve deep leaf piles and warm, brick areas, planting against foundation/basement walls, raised plantings, cold frame. More ideas in this one. Then there's the removal of that which ruins the appearance, within reason, budget, property value, personal taste, sentiment, etc... of course. I also think that butterflies add to a tropical appearance, so whatever you can come up with for nectar plants will help encourage them to visit. Some of my workhorses in that area are tall Zinnias and Basil. Couple bucks' worth of seeds makes large plants that attract them for months. When Coleus blooms they like those flowers too.

E-bay is the only way I can now get Authentic Patterns, Inc., a square dance dress pattern company that is now out of business. Look for patterns that are uncut and come from a smoke-free home. If anyone in the forum has any, pls let me know if you want to sell/give them away. Mary