Jan, TWP would be a good choice. TWP is also a penetrating sealer. I could have picked either company and became a distributor, I chose the Bakers because it is TWP\\\'s basic formulation (200 series) then Tom Baker and company adds their pigmentation. I think the colors are more even and prettier than the TWP formulations. Most customers of mine are blown away by the appearance of the Bakers. It enhances the natural wood grain. It does not cover it in any way. As it sits on the wood for a week or so it dives down creating an even more rich tone. The only caveat with TWP, Bakers and these types of oils is that they require two coats. The two coats can be done at the same time and usually you can by with just one coat on the rails. Hope this helps. PS: The more pigmentation the better the protection from sun damage. But in a scenario where the sun is shielded by a roof,you can cut a product like Bakers with the clear so you have a more natural appearance.

Hi. Couple of things: Is this a very old house, i.e., had joined, minimal struture, no consideratin of insulation requirements...? 1. All appliances, bathrooms, sources of moisture MUST be mechanically vented, period, and vented outside, not to attics or eaves. This is critical! 2. The attic space must have a way in for the air or the fan will suck the moist house air through it, to condense on the roof and rafters; 3. Check for roof leaks, bad flashing, just in case this is a bad roof issue; 4. The side roof/walls (top of the gambrel) are too thin for good insulation, and are not moisture resistant or vented. If the insulation is fiberglass, it must be vented or extremely well sealed (almost impossible), especially at a bathroom (see #1); 5. You may well have to take extreme measures. Based on your description, I would suggest removing the interior wall/celing finishes and the now-wet insulation and using a closed cell spray foam insulation. This is impermeable, will not pass moisture and will exceed any r-value of other products. This may seem extreme (it is) but the moisture, mold and rot will do it for you if you don't. Please note that the roof sheathing must be inspected and replaced if rotted; 6. The earlier suggestion of drilling the 2x6 "mid-ridge" might help if the bottom of the eaves can get a soffit vent like a circular vent in each rafter bay or continuous strip vent installed, and if the insulated upper portions have a channel between the insulation and roof sheating and the main ridge can get a vent (or perhaps a small gable vent with a fan if there is a small attic space at the ridge. But this puts you into step 5 for a better result. Good luck. This is extremely serious (as I am sure you know)and will be a lot of work to fix right. But if you do it well, your energy costs will drop, and your roof won't rot away. Also, if your recessed lights are going into unconditioned space like the attic floor, they must be air-tight and insulated cans, not standard units.

allison, I have to ask but understand if you'd rather not say: my DH's family is in Alabama, and I would love to know which lake you live near! His grandparents had a lake cottage at Smith Lake for years, and I fell in love w/the area (having lived my entire life in OK and TX, it was the hills and mountains that did it.) And how is this for continuing coincidence: I'm familiar w/your architect! We love his work, but have a more contemporary preference and chose an architect from Dallas instead. Your home is absolutely extraordinary (which I'm sure you've heard before), and I can't thank you enough for sharing the photos. I'm going to show your beams to my trim carpenter (I hate that title - the man is an artist of woodworking), and will ask me another question that I completely understand if you'd rather not answer: where did you purchase your cedar and spruce beams? It's getting harder by the day to find true lumber mills - my grandfather owned one in southern OK for decades, and I wish every day it was still in operation. Again, thank you all for your feedback! pic of the ceiling in question in great room, under construction: Here is a link that might be useful: construction progress from earlier this month

Thank you klem, appreciate your follow-up. I used a comb of 409 and mold & mildew killer w bleach. After cleaning, I had to go back w a diff lightly dampened sponge mop and wipe off the residual. I still could not get into the individual grooves which still has some mold in them, but 99% of the planks have all been thoroughly cleaned. It took me 4-5 hrs of tough angle cleaning. I am going to have to find a better way to do this or more importantly, prevent it ?? Thanks for everyone's suggestions and help - tstex