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Will you have light rail? I have light rail and it hides both the undercounter lights and the angle power strip. I only have them on my cooktop side and I don't keep anything plugged in all the time, so the "dangling cord" is not an issue for me.

Do you see it? It's under these 3 cabinets....

Another "view" (under cabinets on the left)

The angled ones do have a bigger profile but can still be hidden. Some people do their own angle with a triangular wood strip.

So as not to interfere with my tile work, I agreed to have mine mounted flush to the bottom of the cabinets.

I learned about Plugmold when it was too late to install them. There were many times that I wished I had them. Not so much because of the backsplash, but because I wanted to work "here" and the cord would not reach. Or I wanted DD to work "there" but the cord would not reach. You get the picture.

We are now in a hew house and will be redoing this kitchen. IÂm not sure how many uppers I will have, so I may not be able to use them there. But I am seriously leaning toward installing them under the lip around the perimeter of the island that I will have. I want to be able to plug anything in at any position on the island. :-)

The other option which I am considering is to put a couple of plugs in where you know you will keep things plugged in all the time (for me kitchen tv and coffee maker and maybe toaster) so the cords won't dangle (I agree I would not like that either!). Then have the plug mold for use when you need extra plugs for mixers, etc.

I was planning on the angled plug mold except for the 2 appliances that are on the counter all the time. Well, I ordered my cabinets with 1.25" light rail but now I have to meet the 2008 NEC code and the compliant plugmold is over 2" deep. My cabinets are being installed as we speak and I haven't ordered the plugmold yet. It's not that noticeable so I think I will bite the bullet but this compliant stuff is really expensive. Just something to check into. I was originally really excited about plugmold IF I don't see it.

I had a nightmarish tile installation. One of the real challenges was because I had a very undulated backsplash - the designer's choice.

Wish I had known about plugmold. After the fact, she said she had never even considered it but that she had known about it.

With my undulated backsplash, I was given two choices - - grouting down the outlet covers (impossible to then service) to hide the undulations, or having the tile carved out around the outlet covers - - looks really bad.

Plugmold could have saved the day.

Hindsight is 20 20.

I used angled plugmold (and light rails) under all my cabs. I also have 2 regular outlets in not so prominent places in my backsplash. Now, I have a fairly small kitchen and there really aren't that many upper cabs. But still, I think I went into serious overkill with the plugmold! In retrospect, for things I keep always plugged into the outlets (coffee maker, toaster, phone and TV), I actually prefer to use the outlet that is in the backsplash because I really don't enjoy seeing the wire hanging down from the cabs. The plugmold comes in handy when I start to introduce additional electrical items for use. In that case, I'm never limited in trying to find a power source because there is one at every turn! Even so, the good lord knows, I really don't need 20+ outlets in my small, galley kitchen!

The other issue with the plugmold is that, although it's pretty well hidden from view when standing/walking in the kitchen, there are times I'm seated in the kitchen dining area. Once I sit down at that table -- which is considerably lower than my countertops, I can see the plugmold under all my cabs. To be honest, it really doesn't bother me so much to see the plugmold from that perspective. And, the few guests who have seen it that way and have commented on it all all say something like : "gee, you've got those outlets under your cabs. That's cool!" LOL

BTW, I did not buy my angled plugmold. In my application, my GC/carpenter made the angled wood blocks and the electrician then attached the plugmold to the blocks and the blocks to the undersides of the cabs. This is the method of achieving angled plugmold that Pllog has noted.

Bottom line: if I had it to do all over again, I would still install plugmold but I just wouldn't install it so much!

Thanks everyone!

buehl, yes; I will have a light rail so that will help to hide it. Yours looks fantastic!

I also like the idea of mounting it flush to the bottom of the cabinets as pllog did, but doesn't that interfere with your undercabinet task lighting? If you don't mount it to the bottom of your cabinets, you end up having to tile around it, right?

bostonpam, you indicated that your cabinets have a " 1.25 inch light rail but now I have to meet the 2008 NEC code and the compliant plugmold is over 2" deep". I think that's what mine will be....what is the problem with these measurements? I'll probably run into that also.

THanks!

From my research the only company I can find that does 2008 NEC compliant "plugmold" is task lighting and they have it only in the angled format. When the angled power strips are installed they will come down 2 1/8" from the bottom of your cabinets. My light rail is 1 1/4" deep (down from the cabinet) When I picked out my light rail I didn't realize I had to have compliant power strips. If you look at the installed power strips straight on it will be almost 1" longer than the lightrail. This is at 52" height for me so only kids will see the power strip all the time. If you're taller the light rail will cover more of your backsplash (because you're looking at the lightrail from an angle and not straight on). I hope this makes sense.

I needed a mock up to test it out - I didn't want to go thru all the calculations on exactly what I would see and it would be quicker with a mock up. (As engineers my DH and I do this all the time) We put up a mock up of the angled power strips with our present cabinets. The power strips will be "snow" and we're probably getting a white/cream subway tile backsplash. At 5'3" I barely saw it and my DH didn't see it all. Like Marthavila said - everyone will see it if sitting at the table though. I'm satisfied and decided to get it. Then I got the price.

APS Tamper Resistant strips.
24" $101.87 x 4 = $407.50
30" $110.12
42" $136.25
60" $168.74

plus tax

Much more than I budgeted and I'm already over but I think I will still go for it. My electrical inspector saw the wiring for the plugmold and told my electrician I had to have the tamper resistant (TR) outlets or I wouldn't pass inspection. Yes, I can understand TR outlets under 3' BUT these outlets are 6' from the floor (when you take into account the cabinets you have to reach over to get at it)!!! OK I' off my soapbox. HTH

Here is a link that might be useful: task lighting compliant power strips

I also like the idea of mounting it flush to the bottom of the cabinets as pllog did

This intrigues me as well. Is there ever a problem where the plug doesnÂt want to stay in due to gravity?

but doesn't that interfere with your undercabinet task lighting?

IÂm an old timer and come-to-think-of-it, I havnÂt seen a thread on this for a while  though I might have missed it. I think you will find that most folks prefer to mount their task lighting toward the front of the upper cabinets. If you think about it, this makes a lot of sense. The "task" is being done on the counter below. By installing the light toward the from of the cabinet, the entire counter below will be illuminated. If you install your task lighting toward the back of the wall, the wall and back counter will receive the light.

I was too late to learn abut plugmold, but I did follow this advice and install my task lighting toward the front, and I would do it this way again.

There is a 2008 TR compliant plugmold called R20, if I recall correctly. However, I decided instead to embed a line of Sillites into wood strips just under the cabinets and above the tile. There are now compliant TR Sillites available.

I also used them in the soapstone backsplash behind my cooktops. They are practically invisible against freshly oiled soapstone.

kas

Thanks for the information bostonpam.
And thanks kaseki for the tip about stillites. I hadn't heard of them. Jeri, thanks for the tip about installing undercabinet task lighting.

I just learned that it may cost a lot more for me to use the plugmold...somthing about the wiring in my kitchen having to be redone (sigh). I don't see why this would be any more expensive than outlets.

I AM GOING TO USE ANGLED WIREMOLD STRIPS BUT I AM NOT SURE WHERE TO BUY.

THANKS JIM K.

Kaseki how did you install the sillites into soapstone? Thought they only can be installed in wood. Would love to do that!