Don't overlook the Jenn-Air Fridges. They have been rated #1 for reliability by Consumer Reports since about 2005 (before they were bought by Maytag and subsequently Whirlpool). Even today they are still rated # 1 as far as built in Fridges are concerned. SZ usted to be rated "Dead last" reliability, but they have managed to "Climb off the bottom", now. SZ is apparently still (they went back) to the old On/off style compressors, while virtually every other Fridge, (Miele, Lebherr,Most the Whirpool Family--etc etc), use the variable speed compressors. One does not need 2 separate compressors to keep veggies fruits etc etc to last longer---plenty of "Brags --- blah blah blah---etc etc as to how long the JA keeps food, as well as most any other New Fridge. I would only buy the JA, however, if I could find a "Deal", IE Craig's List, Ebay, Demo Model etc etc on the JA. Good Luck on your hunt. I think you will be happier with a shallower fridge as you won't (as one poster put it) have "Chemical Experiments" ((Paraphrasing)), going on in the very back recesses of the older style deep fridges!!! Gary

Hello "flat"-fans...! I feel bad about your wall situation. I wish you would've came to our store! I would've strongly recommended the ACE Sensations flat (Scotchguard in it), or maybe a Satin-sheen "traditional" wall-paint. With kids in the house, flat just doesn't cut it. For an adults bedroom or office...fine. For a kids-room or family-room...no way! Gotta think "real-life" here. >>> I'd seriously use a Satin for your stairway. >>> The whole point of having a "sheen" in a paint is to resist the damage that requires you to "touch-up" a flat in the first place!! >>> TRUE...a flat does minimize wall imperfections, AND some grades are CHEAP... EXACTLY why builders like it! >>> MOST flats don't have the sheen to resist water penetration like a Semi-gloss does. S/G paints resist burnishing and clean very well. >>> TRUE...the higher the sheen, the more imperfections you'll notice. BUT...cleanability can't be beat. >>> If you've GOTTA have flat...check an ACE near you. The Sensations flat is superb. When dried for a couple weeks, we rubbed dirty motor-oil, tomato sauces, peanut-butter, crayons, etc. onto the film. With light wiping & 409 cleaner, it cleaned off great! It's about $7 more per gallon than the regular flat. >>> For touching up a Satin or S/G... use a small sponge with a bit of paint and lightly "dab" it on. This simulates the stipple of a roller. >>> Use the best quality paints you can afford...don't skimp on rollers/brushes either! This'll help! Faron

Dh just came home & I asked him. This is my layman's version. Red paint is mostly colorant and so has less base paint in it and takes more to get a good cover. If you used 3 thick coats, it is probably just that, too thick & needs more cure time. On the spots not sticking, he said if they are truly not adhering, you have a problem and you should either scrape, strip or sand those spots until you get down to something solid, smooth the whole door & start over. If it's sticky, it will gum up the sandpaper, but can be done. Then, if you are using a neutral base paint, use a gray base primer and it will be easier to cover. What is the specific paint you were using, i.e. brand, type (acrylic latex, etc). He suggests you go back over it with an acrylic latex and you'll be fine.

Primer is designed to bone with a surface and provide a surface to which paint will stick. Paint on a finished surface will be a layer of color, not paint. BIN primer can be applied to your dresser without sanding---it is a shellac based primer designed to stick to almost anything. Or sand off the remaining paint/finish and prime with any primer.