Are you asking for a style of chair, color, or for a type of upholstery that would work with your leather sofa set? As for style the most important thing to find is a chair with the right scale. Small chairs with large leather pieces don't generally work well. Color is so subjective and depends on your wall and rug colors. My personal preference is to use a patterned upholstery in darker colors with brown leather. One of my fav upholstery choices with leather is a heavy tapestry and there are many colors and patterns to choose from.

I was going to suggest down insert pillows as well. No problems with the pillows on both of our leather sectionals. The two oblong decorative pillows on our bedroom bench (slick-coated leather) kept sliding when I tried to sit them upright. But I "plumped" the down filling in them until they stayed put, and no problems since.

Wellington, Im glad to here your experiences and that you have more knowledge compared to most retailers. And you make some good points and some that are not correct. Example is the link to the Chesterfield sofa. First how to you think they attach the row of buttons thats along the front edge of the seat, thats the first row just above the top seat border? I direct you to your site here: http://www.wellingtonsleather.com/furniture-catalog/sofas-a-loveseats/ball-in-claw-leather-sofa-detail.html I can just about guarantee that this sofa does not have coil spring 8-way hand tied seat. Thus not every sofa has 8-way tied spring coil seating. You mentioned using metal rods instead of twine. Metal rods is not exactly the correct terminology, its metal prong buttons and when a manufacturer (McKinley Leather is one and a number of others) that pre-tuffs; they either use the metal prong buttons or a pre-tied twine in a loop to a length that matches the thickness of the poly and using a slited plastic washer to hook and hold in the button. You said you never heard of "pre-tufting a seat. Pre-tufting is where they glue a piece of FLW or propex to the bottom of the foam that is pre-bored for tufting. Then someone, not an upholster, lays on the material (fabric/leather) where the position of the buttons is already marked by the cutter. This person then locates this mark on the material, takes a prong metal button and pushes the button through the material, through the hole in the foam (this hole must align with the correct mark on the material, through the FLW and bends over the prongs to secure the button into the foam near the bottom, doing all the buttons this way is how you make a pre-tufted seat. This person also folds over each pleat to finish up. Then all the upholster has to do is place it over the springs and staples down along the edges. Saves quit a bit of time and labor costs. This is how most major upholstery manufacturers do their button tufting. As far as how good 8-way tied spring coil seating is, its only as good as they the manufacturer makes it. Please know that the springs are held together with twine. Twine being a string. String can break. It breaks much easier than metal. Thats just the laws of physics. I have seen 100 times more often repairs done on 8-way tied spring coils that are being reupholstered than repairs done on no-sag springs. No-sag springs that are 8 to 8.5 gauge will not ever break or sag. Thats been tested by many of furniture labs. The issue with no-sag springs is how their fastened and what their fastened to. I have seen many times where no-sag springs have either pulled loose from the frame or the frame that holds the no-sag spring is broken. But its never the spring itself. Their is no better seating than a 8-way hand tied coil seating with a spring-edge front. Its the most comfortable, evenly support across the seat and will go a long ways in helping seat cushions hold their front edge shape and increase their life. The problem is very few manufacturers still make a spring-edge front any more. To make a spring-edge front requires at least 3 times longer than a just tying the springs directly to the top edge of all the seat rails. The image you show is close to being correctly tied. The twine should be knot tied at every point, its not in the image, its just every other point on the spring is knot tied. Now they do drop down on the last ring of the coils along the outside edge, thats good. Also should never be less than 4 rows deep and have a slight crown in the center. And this is where now so many upholstery manufacturers, in their spring-up department have gotten away from tying correctly, the way it should be done. The tying it the quickest and easiest way possible, just so they can use the term "8-way hand tied coil seating ". In a nutshell your sitting on the string/twine and not the springs. A seat thats flat with no ride, meaning its so firm that it offers little comfort, so your just sitting on the cushions and the twine, until the twine finally gives out and breaks. My point is don't always buy into the 8-way hand tied coil seat advertising as thats all it is: advertising. Now my case in point for a button tufted seat using no-sag springs. The fabric, buttons with the twine, dacron fiber, poly (foam) and springs should move together as one unit. TOP TO BOTTOM. And that won't happen if you try to button tuft a hand tied coil spring seat. Because the coil springs at the bottom do not move. And thats where you tie off the buttons also, at the bottom, unless of course its a pre-tufted seat. I strongly suggest that you connect with the upholster on this and come and see him actually build a tufted seat. Maybe take some photos and post them here.

Yes, there is one sure way to avoid puddling of leather, and that is to never use the sofa. Sorry, couldn't resist, as I get asked this question several times a week. I sell a lot of leather furniture and can tell you this about puddling: 1) Know the leather you are buying. There is cowhide, and there is steerhide, and it runs in grades. Cowhide (female) will always stretch more and is less desirable for that reason, so it costs less to the manufacturers. Steerhide (male) is less prone to stretch. Companies like Hancock and Moore will only use A Grade Steerhide, and it makes a difference. The problem you will run into is 99% of all furniture salespeople will go blank if you ask them this question and will never have heard of this. 2) Yes, you can can extra full backs and extra firm seats which will cut down on puddling. However, you have to find a balance between firm/full and comfort levels as their are many density levels of foam you can request from the better makers. As you increase that firmness and fullness, your comfort level declines. I have had customers so concerned with puddling that they make their sofa into something that is almost as stiff as a wooden park bench and its miserable to sit in. Then - they get to buy all new cores for seats and backs for about $ 900 to get then softer. I recommend most customers go one step up in firmness/fullness, but not more than that unless they are over 300 lb. Choose wisely 3) Any cushion with down is going to puddle more and have a more relaxed look to it. The Marshall Unit Spring Cores will not help. 4) When the piece ages get new seat and back cores for it. That can really helps a lot. There are various replacement policies in place from most the makers - ask. For example Hancock and Moore does free back and seat cores to the original owner, not even a shipping charge. Bradington Young does seats only as replacements but you pay the shipping (Backs are full replacement price). Duane Collie