Doug, Typically, what CAUSES THIS is a breakdown of the hydro oil over time, due MOSTLY TO, overheating of the oil. As you use the tractor, dirt/debris will build-up on top of the trans, and sometimes the cooling fan can lose blades or blades damaged in some way....ALL OF THIS...causes the oil to get very hot. To replace this transmissions is VERY EXPENSIVE....usually in the $500-600 range. This trans is probably a Hydro-Gear or Spicer/Dana unit. I would consult the owner's manual for servicing of these units. You can empty the fluid/oil out and replace it, which might very well....SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM. Also inspect the cooling fan for any damage, and clean off the top of the unit thoroughly BEFORE you attempt to remove a drain plug. Keep ALL DIRT away from the drain hole to prevent contamination. After you've replaced the oil, there's a "purging" procedure you'll need to do to remove all air that can get inside during this oil replacing process. The owner's manual will also tell you the PROPER OIL to use when doing this. WRONG OIL.....A REAL NO NO !!! T-Man

I have kind of a funny/awful Static Guard story. A number of years ago I worked with a woman who kept a can of that stuff (or something similar) in her desk and during the winter months when things went "electrical", she'd get it out and spray up under her dress to keep it from sticking to her legs. One day a man walked by the office and saw her do this, and later I overheard him asking another male colleague, "Was she using feminine deodorant spray?" A comment completely inappropriate for the workplace, to be sure - but it was another place and time, and it's certainly a comment I've not forgotten! (OK, back to your regularly scheduled thread discussion ...)

"I wrote the wrong numbers: .6 return side and .2 on supply side. He showed me the meter readings so I do not know anything about documentation. What do you mean with or without the coil?" The manufacturer states a specification for 'total external SP'. He should also state what constitutes the system. Since many different coils (including 3rd party coils) can be used, the manufacturer, not knowing, will likely not include the pressure drop for the coil. So, by taking the supply reading 'after the coil', its pressure drop is NOT included with the SP reading. Likewise, the same holds true for the filter. In order for its pressure drop to be included, the hole should be located after the filter, before the blower. Ask that they drill additional holes (where indicated) and retest the SP. I would be curious to know where you are located, and the general description of your house, including square footage. Five tons is a lot of air. Hope a heat calc was done to determine true cooling needs. Many (original) duct systems were undersized for the installed system, which tended to be oversized. You might try 'demanding' that they determine actual airflow to the system. An a/c system is designed to flow approximately 400 CFM (+/-) per ton, to the system. The flow can be adjusted somewhat to augment cooling or humidity removal, as needed. Do you get adequate airflow to all areas of the house, especially the farthest areas from the air handler? They may have boosted the airflow somewhat to accomplish that, which in itself, would raise the static. At a minimum, since you are obviously lacking in return air, the return drop (from the ceiling to the filter) should be enlarged as much as possible, with a nice radiused turn with transition into the filter housing. Good luck. V

They have wall paper out there that resembles an old world or skip troweled finish.It's a heavy ,but flat type of texture.I saw it in an inn and had to look close to see that it was wall paper. You can achieve the same look by actually doing a skip trowel on your project, even with the imperfections, but it's time consuming dealing with the bumps and bruises on the wall when your blade knife hits them. It just takes patience and a little practice and experimenting with the thicknesses of the mud. Best of luck on your project!