I still (hanging my head, shame faced) don't know how to upload photos. But I will get someone to help me and post a few. Would be best to take them in daylight. fori, having taken part in DD's reno I do know how labor intenstive it is to paint cabinets properly. DD & SIL painted them in his Dad's home and later in their own. They have a large garage space (w/ heat) & a good sprayer. I helped with the priming, sanding, & poly stages with the ones for their home. Lots of steps & drying time between but the results were so worth it. I know I'll go bananas during the process, having everything out of order. But I could get through that. I just have to decide if a change is in order. I'm so used to seeing it as it is, I can't be objective. That's why I'd like opinions from the folks here.

This is a newly installed floor. I no longer trust my installer, so I stopped the work and I am now trying sealers on my own. I only sanded the floor unprofessionally, with a small hand machine and a sanding paper, but those marks were not there before, they appeared after I applied the sealer and they go away easily with further light sanding. I never checked humidity, and neither did my installer. But I keep the AC on all the time and the floor is now about 1 month old. I will try to sand and put a second coat and report again ASAP Thank you all

SJ McCarthy, I do have photos of the cracking and rising floor boards. And of the spotty finish, streaks, and drips. The boards have sat untouched and unfinished in our AC home for the last nine months, and within days of the oil and water applications the cracking and rising occurred. It’s been less than ten days since the floor has been finished. The guy who did the work was the owner of a highly rated flooring refinishing company in my area. We agreed to use a water-based finish which is on my contract as Poloplaz 1k water-based floor finish with a matte sheen. When he arrive he talked me into using an oil-based product instead, stating that it would keep the natural color as it is, but also preserve the wood. I apologize for repeating myself here -- I was so fearful of the oil yellowing the white oak which I stated many times to him, but he assured me if it did yellow it wouldn’t be for fifteen to twenty years. He said he would be using a clear, natural, expensive oil-based polyurethane finish that was newly opened. I'm not sure of the brand but I do have a photo of the yellow oil drip down the side of one of the white panels around the stairs. The next day after the oil application he added the matte flat water-based finish and I absolutely know what product he used because after the second coat was applied I followed him out to his truck voicing my concerns about the color/finish of the floor and he showed me the container… Bona Traffic HD extra matte. That’s when he blamed the product for the streaky look of the finish. He said he doesn’t like using this Bona product for quality reasons but because I insisted on a matte finish he didn’t have a choice. He said he could use a different product but it would leave a shine and not have the matte look I wanted. Thankfully the guy did not apply the 'natural poly' over the factory finished Shaw floors. My contract with him states that he would apply it over the entire dining area, and I was charged for it, but at the last minute the decision to not do it was made. The guy is not affiliated with my general contractor because I wanted to hire a flooring ‘professional’ who truly understood hardwood floor finishes. I was incredibly anxious and very select about what I wanted in the finish and it took me a while to find and then trust someone. Unfortunately I paid him in full. Contractors, here at least, are allowed to have a lien against your home if you withhold payment and because I'm not familiar with what that truly means legally for me, as the homeowner, I paid. Thank you for your information regarding an inspector from NWFA -- it's a great idea and I will most certainly make a few phone calls. Recent research has informed me that an oil-based polyurethane needs to cure for at least two weeks to 60 days before adding a water-based finish, do you know if that statement is true? And if so then the pro not waiting for the curing time before applying the water-based finish likely and knowingly voided the warranty on the Bona product -- he's been in business a long time so he would know. Also, is a natural polyurethane the same as an oil-based polyurethane? I'm just making sure I understand everything before speaking with an inspector. Thank you so very much for your advice and time, SJ McCarthy, I really appreciate all of your help.

Believe it or not, Black Magic has some red in it. Because of that, a cold start white abutting may be jarring. Not much is said about but, as Kylie says: it has enough warmth in it without going yellow on you.