This is really not a problem. There have been houses where we have gotten a considerable amount of paint on the unsanded hardwood floor (1-2 mils, you're talking less than 0.25 mils there, it's overspray) and the sanding has taken the paint completely off. I've even had flooring guys tell me don't worry about the floors. Have them mask off around doorways and baseboard when spraying trim. Other than that, it will sand off without problem.

Thanks, folks, for the quick responses. I have two gallons of primer that I bought at a paint shop last year. They've never been opened. I taking them to the local hardware store and (shamefacedly) asking if they'll put them in the shaker for me. I'll offer to pay for the service, since I didn't purchase the primer from them. That will save me a 90-mile round trip back to the GF shop. I'm going to go ahead and prime. I can hear my Grandmother saying "Better safe than sorry," and "If it's worth doing; it's worth doing right." Jannie, I'm a "two-coat" painter, too. In my sewing room, which is an etheral "lilac vapor," I used three coats. The difference in the depth and shimmer of color between two coats and three was amamzing. I had bought two gallons of the paint and decided that the third coat couldn't hurt. I still have about one-quart of the paint left for touch-ups. I'll probably do only two coats of the darker sage color.

Um, the BLO and turps mix is NOT the reason for the problem. It's a standard, recommended, pre-treatment for extremely old, resinous, (i.e old growth pine, fir or cedar), partly weather-exposed, wood. Besides, that's what's under the still-sticking BM primer and top coats on the other buildings. In my case it is the unsatisfactoriness of the SW paint. The BLO component of the pre-treatment step has recently come into question in some quarters as a possible substrate for subsequent mold issues. However, again, it's under the BM paint with no problems seen. Some people have recently chosen to use organic BLO (it's quite pricey and I don't see a difference in other tests) or use a concoction made partly with Penetrol as recommended by the Forest Service. Old wood -and mine is more than 160 years old - is a very different from modern materials and requires different prep steps. Perhaps the difference between my experience and that of Olhousegal's is that my project preceded the Duration formulation, and of course, I am in a much more severe climate where temps of -25F are routine. The OP and I live in the same region, which is why I piped up with my experience. My steps were the same as OHG's: I painstakingly went back to clean wood, too. That's part of the reason I was so disappointed with the results. L.

Shee & Co., Sorry it took me a while to get back to this.... Skewing: I shouldn't have mentioned this goofy little point, but now it's out there! It's only relevant in a few "Real-life" scenarios. It mainly pertains (to ME anyway...) paint applied too thinly, therefore revealing a hint of the primer color. * Example: If someone uses a "pink" primer under Burgundy, the whole paintjob can appear too light, 'cuz the primer is too white. * To ME...Gray is more appropriate, 'cuz it alters deep colors the "least", if paint is applied too thin. * Gray primer has its limits though! If you're painting a vivid "Lemon Yellow" or "Basketball Orange", THEN you'd need a primer that's almost the final paint color! A medium-gray primer COULD give a grayish-cast to bright, vivid tones. Curing/Bathroom use: * Sorry Shee.....you'll have to smell for a month.........;-) * JUST KIDDING! * After 2nd paint coat has dried for a day, use bathroom as normal. It needs that 24hrs. to get the initial surface-dry so steam doesn't re-soften the paint slightly. * "Full Cure-Out" mainly refers to the complete dry-thru/hardening of the applied film...SO IT'S WASHABLE. "Sweeping": * If you're working L-to-R, the RIGHT edge of a "swept" section will be the wettest. * Therefore, you're OK to slightly work into this section. When sweeping your 2nd column, start from its left edge, overlapping into 1st column slightly. * Ease-off the pressure on your rollers left side just a hair when overlapping a previous sections' final sweep. Faron