Funny that you guys started to discuss this just when I am about to start this same project myself. Here are my findings. First off, if you plan of putting a counter on top of the new 3.8 cu ft FL, good luck, and have your pocket book ready. You see, the deepest "standard" counters are those for kitchens, at 25 1/8". Assuming that one leaves around 5" of clearance behind those newer FL machines for vents, air circulation, heat, etc, then you are looking at about 30"-35" of depth, depending on how flush you want the counter to come to the front of the machine. Having said that, there are 3 prices for laminate counters in the stores (like Home Depot). The counters you see in the store in stock are the cheapest, and will cost around $10 li ft. If you need to pick a finish that matches say the sink counter top in your bathroom where the machines are also located, then that is considered a custom order, even if it is a standard depth. This will easily double the price to $20 li ft. Now if you want to order a non-standard depth so that it goes from the back of the wall to the front of your new FL, then you are looking at $35-$50 li ft, depending on type of finish like rounded vs sqaure front edge, back ledge or no ledge, etc... Keep this in mind when shopping for a counter top. I would like my counter to cover the machines completely, so I might have to bite the bullet and order the more expensive counter top.... Again, I am talking about a laminate counter top, no fancy materials here.... I am from Canada, and here is what the local Home Depot quoted me in Canadian dollars for the 3 options.. 1) In-Store counter (limited finishes) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $68 CAD Custom order counter (you choose the finish) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $132 - $150 CAD 30 Csutom order counter (you choose the finish) 30-35" (non standard depth) X 6 feet = $222 CAD I believe the last option of non-standard depth only allows for a square front edge finish. If you want a rounder edge in front, like that found on your kitchen counter, the price jumps to $500 CAD, since the guy said that they have to charge for a full 4X8 sheet, and then cut the custom size from there, in order to get the rounded front edge... One other option you can do, which my brother did very nicely is lay down 2 sheets of plywood (for extra thickness), and tile the top and sides, looks really nice, but is a lot more work...

We have a 1916 home; just a few remarks re our own experience: 1) Are you sure the entire floor is concrete? We have a concrete slab just where the stove was. It is visible from the (unfinished) basement. (The rest is wood subfloor.) 2) When we moved in, the kitchen floor was green linoleum and the small countertop was the same, held in place with metal edging. Don't know how long that it been there, but long. (I think it was real linoleum, but not sure. But it wasn't pretty!) 3) We very much respect our house's character and try to maintain it. But we don't live in a museum. When we expanded/remodeled we matched the mouldings, windows, etc, but felt no compulsion to match every kitchen detail. We put down a "standard" oak floor similar to that in the rest of the house, and used a medium-light, marble-like, greenish granite (with white cabs). It seems completely in sync with the house, even though it is not period. Unless you plan on getting 1919 appliances, you're not going to have a 1919 kitchen no matter what you do. Don't feel compelled to do anything you don't really like, just to be "authentic." P.S. Don't get too hung up on the home's specific style. Fact is, most houses from that period -- like ours -- are a mishmosh of styles, and simply reflect what was currently popular. (As remains the case with most new homes today, though I would say to less pleasing effect!)

Claybabe, You are a goddess! Forgive the delay in response, I just caught up with mail and had missed this post on the forum. YES, those are exactly perfect and VERY VERY helpful! I can't thank you enough! These, along with the thread in the metalworking forum, should give us ample inspiration to go on. Was there a reason you decided to notch out the counter where it hit the sink, rather than leave it full thickness? Aesthetics or other? It looks fantastic, I must say. Do you know what substrate was used? We templated our mdf/plywood substrate this week, copper sheet purchase is next week. Starting to get excited! PS: Here's the stainless counter from the sink gallery:

I agree with LWO--cooktop on the back wall. Also agree about time spent on each kitchen task. (The rest of his post seems a little hyperbolic.) You can then center the sink on the island, and prep to the left, across from the cooktop. The work triangle is contained in an area the size of a normal kitchen ;), and since the sink, DW, and trash pull-out are centered on the island, you have the option to reduce the widths of the drawers on each end, if finding a counter slab that wide proves difficult. I moved the ovens out of the corner (see pic at bottom for possible corner storage options), and drew the cabinets on the back wall deeper than standard, since you have such a wide work aisle. That will also provide more counter space, and if you're using a custom cabinet builder, you can have deeper drawers, for extra storage space. I'd suggest making the bar sink at least 18" wide, so it doubles as a prep sink when you have helpers in the kitchen. I reduced the size of the sink in the butler's pantry, to 18", and added a full-height ROTS pantry unit in there. You could also have a pull-out pantry to the right of the ovens, depending on which corner storage option is chosen. I made the counter deeper in the pantry and omitted the jog to recess the fridge. Cabinet widths are approximate and need to be verified. GW discussions--deeper counters GW discussions--deeper drawers