Lowes Lows, $1400 to tear out 9x16 kitchen???
dasistgut
15 years ago
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sara_m
15 years agowritersblock (9b/10a)
15 years agoRelated Discussions
hood venting for low-ceiling kitchen?
Comments (13)Colin3: - thank you for reminding me about space between ceiling joists. I THOUGHT my joists run in opposite direction, but after closer inspection, they run parallel to the direction of venting out. Yay: so I get another ~7inches!!! YAY! - I will check w/ my HVAC person about customizing the duct transition pieces. - The back of the hood = my familyroom. And upstairs = the guest room. But w/ PALIMPSEST's input, I may get another 2 inches, if I drop the hood to countertop height to 27" to increase effectiveness. Willtv: Thank you for the great info on the Proline/your experience. But weren't you nervous w/ all the negative feedback? I don't know if I can pull the trigger. I really like the high (er than Broan) CFM for the great price. W/ my layout, I do not have the luxury of a quiet hood, but all I care is that it'll suck the grease and smell of garlic and oil, etc, out! Davidro1: chicken or egg? Do I buy the hood that I want, and then fit it to my house? Or see what my limitations are due to my layout to deduce on which hood to purchase? There are so many beautiful hoods that I know will not fit into my layout/ceiling/up-left-out layout. Thank you, Amanda...See MoreNeed low cost kitchen ideas please!
Comments (29)I don't know how to edit the title- we've been here a week and this is the midway point. We will have spent about $350 when all is done. H is doing all the work himself. I tried to do a concrete treatment on the countertop, and messed up the sink section- clearance ikea counter and sink to the rescue! So we will paint (SW Sea salt), change hardware to antique bronze, update lighting, add molding to the vinyl bead board, and add art. I don't love the concrete counter treatment, and if I'd known I'd be adding the butcher block I'd have removed the strip of backsplash around the whole kitchen instead of having to concrete that part too.... But I can live with it for 5 ish years until we do a proper remodel. Yes there are dirty dishes in the sink, always, lol. Feedback welcome before it's too late to turn back! I wish I could have ikea counters for the whole kitchen but DH doesn't trust himself to get the cuts right...See MoreExisting oak wood floors are too low to match with new wood in kitchen
Comments (5)You can put in a new floor in the kitchen and have it matched to the old one. It won’t have a patina but if done correctly blends very well! You can barely tell the difference between my 70 year old and 6 month old floors....See More1000 CFM or 1400 CFM -- Kaseki you still out there???
Comments (24)I am a little confused as to how hood aperture can be so relevant. Say you have a 36" range....its 24" deep. If you have a hood of the same size mounted 36" above it...you have 18 cubic feet of air between the stovetop and the hood. At 900CFM you're removing 15 cubic feet of air per second. So in the first second your blower is running (you can assume it was already on for a few minutes before the test to get up to speed and have air pressures balance out etc), it removes 83% of the air over the range. During the second second, it does this again, which means that in that second, it is replacing 15 cubic feet of air under the hood, with 15 cubic feet of air surrounding the hood/range column (that is to say, the column of air between the top of the stove and bottom of rangetop. In many configurations (mine included) the fan is boxed in my cabinets a little bit on either side, and the wall behind it. Which means it only has 18' of surface area exposed, from which to suck the 15 cubic feet of air. Unless there is some guidance for how to calculate where in that surface area the air will be sucked from first....we could assume it will equally suck in 10" from all sides of the hood/stove column. Assuming a 12" pan on the front burner of the range, and food being fried or burned on the outer edge (aligned with the front edge of the rangetop), the 10 degree half-angle means that effluent rising 36" above the pan, is now 6" from the front of the range/hood...which is within the 10" of air which is being currently sucked into the hood. I could see where the additional width of a hood in this configuration could be beneficial, but in my mind that is only to prevent effluent from rising from a pan, hitting the bottom of the cabinet and getting it all greasy or being deflected out along the counter away from the hood making ventilation more difficult. I don't necessarily see how with that level of air movement (900CFM), an additional 3" of hood depth really changes the equation. If you had a much lower rate of air movement, then I could see the hood depth being more relevant. For example, if I had a 400CFM blower, I am only moving ~6.5 feet per minute...which in a hood 2'x3' means I am barely able to pull more than the 12" of air directly underneath my hood. The volume of air being extracted is so low in that scenario, I could see why a larger (deeper) hood would be substantially beneficial, because you dont have enough air movement, to be confident that you will pull out effluent that is in the air, ~35" above the rangetop and ~10" away from the front of the hood/range. It seems like the argument could be made though that with CFM movement that low, you would need an even deeper hood...like an impractical 32" deep hood 36" above the stove. I guess my unsubstantiated, uninformed hypothesis is that hood aperture is a more important consideration when the volume of air movement is lower (given a constant range surface area)....and that there is limited benefit to a 27" deep hood vs a 24" deep hood if your blower is powerful enough. So if you had a 36x24 hood mounted 36" over your 36x24 range...and you were trying to improve effectiveness of your ventilation system...it would be better to increase the CFM of your blower than to increase the depth of your hood by a few inches. Looking forward to your thoughts on this Kaseki and also, can you clarify for me the difference between capture and containment? I googled but only found documents referencing both together (blah blah capture and containment blah blah). Seems to me like capture and containment mean the same thing, and the words that should be use would be capture (or containment) and ventilation or something, where ventilation is the volume of air removed per unit of time....See Morehaileysuper
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