I built a surround, mantel and overmantel using MDF, various moldings and honed travertine tiles (filled). I don't know how to post pictures, but, if you e-mail me I'd be glad to send you some. To answer your questions: You can install the travertine directly on the drywall using fortified thinset (don't buy the pre-mixed kind). Just make sure the drywall is well anchored, I drove some extra drywall screws into the studs before installing the travertine. I didn't seal my tiles, but, the honed finish is smoother than what you have. The reason to seal before grouting is that the sealant acts as a grout release and makes it easier to clean the grout from the tiles. With rough tiles I've found it helps to keep a water spray bottle handy which you can use to flush out any grout that gets in the holes before it sets. 1/8" spacing is good, however, if your tiles have rough edges you may have to go to 3/16". On the hearth you need plywood for strength and then you should put down some wonderboard or hardiboard. This is because code usually requires at least 1" of non-combustible material on the hearth (check your local code to be sure what the requirement is). You meet the requirement by calculating the thickness of your tile plus the thickness of the thinset (1/8' - 1/4") plus the thickness of the cement board. You should err on the high side. Hearths can get pretty hot, so the thicker the non-combustible layer the better (it acts like an insulator). Also remember to check your local code on the required clearances from the firebox opnening to the mantel and surround. In most jurisdictions this is 12" (for non-combustible materials). I used some corbels that are closer but I bought some made out of molded stone that are non-combustible.

Welcome out of lurkdom Brenda. I would love to help, but a picture is worth a thousand words, so if you can post a pix that would really help.

Thanks so much for your reply! There are glass inserts in the door and I presently have my good dishes and 'pretty stuff' on display so will probably stay with that. Dishes are white with gold trim and the other stuff is mostly coloured glass. Sorry to sound stupid but what is 'mirror' paint? I really like the idea of mirrored background as I do not want it to appear 'dark' inside. I am going to go to the paint/paper store to see if I can come up with a paper that would suit. Any other ideas? Again thanks so much Geeme!

I would try to fix the existing doors on your cabinets. I had an 80s kitchen with the melamine and oak cabinets. For my remodel, I tore out all the old cabinets and replaced them. But I save some of the original cabinets, and put them in the utility room behind the kitchen. I painted everything with something called "Grip and Seal Latex Stain Killer" by Coronado and then had trim board nailed on to the old cabinets (to mimic my new kitchen cabinets). Then I painted everything the same color as my new kitchen cabinets (Benjamin Moore Collector's Item) and used the same cup pulls and knobs as I did on the new cabinets. I'm really pleased with how everything came out. So pleased that sometimes I wonder why I didn't just leave the old cabinets in place and fix them up. Here are some pictures. Original kitchen cabinets: Redone cabinets: Just one thing. When the trim was added to the cabinets, they stuck out just a bit farther than the drawers (which were only painted). So I put a little block at the back of the drawers to make them flush with the cabinets. Hope this helps. Anne