How many feet of baseboard is affected? I know what ferrets smell like. I do not know what Nature's Miracle is. I doubt that the fins have any finish. Assuming that they are raw aluminum over copper tube, avoid acidic cleaners. Aim for a slightly alkaline pH, maybe 7-8.5 ish. Too acidic (low pH) will corrode the fins and copper. Obviously you need to clean out the fur and debris first. Consider phenolic and quaternary amonium cleaner-disinfectants. Otherwise, mild detergent should help. Consider HVAC evaporator cleaners like Nucalgon Evan-fresh or EVap Pow'r-C. They are formulated to be safe and effective on copper/aluminum assemblies, and safe for occupants. (I've never tried their "Blackhawk" cleaner, but it is probably a good bet.). It is an aerosol so it will be expensive if you had a lot of cool to clean.) Personally, for this purpose, I'd go stronger than that stuff, but for someone that does not have chemistry experience, I can say that they are safe for you and for the equipment. Since you are going for a smell, the material producing it is volitale so heat may be your friend. Steam might work well and should not hurt anything. After you are done cleaning as well as you can, Turning on the heat with the windows open might help a lot. Do open the windows and ventilate well because anything that evaporates with the steam or heat from the system might just condense on cooler surfaces if it. Is trapped in the room. That will just move the smell to the walls and such. Ferrets are great and very compelling animals. I have affection for them, but they make terrible pets from several standpoints. Good luck to you.

Okay, finally I have success! I'll detail what I did as it might save someone a lot of headache. First off, hot water pipes are thinner than cold water. I think cold water is type M and hot is type L or vice versa. No matter how many times I look that up, I still forget! Anyway, I got pretty good at cutting the thick one but was having MAJOR difficulty cutting the thin one. To make a long story short, I had to use a hand held key saw. Annoying, slow but that worked. Next, stick bread in the lines on both sides to block the water. You think you get all of the water out of the line, but you don't. With water in the line, soldering will be impossible. You'll have to heat the joints three times as long and the solders won't be good. I had leaks by not following this. A step which I knew but still didn't do. Stupid on my part. Okay, no more leaks. Now, I'm supposed to bleed the lines. Although my house was built in the 1930s, we added a large addition and the house is pretty new, including the heating system. It seems that the plumbers are no longer putting bleeders on the line. Mine don't have any. No problem. I should just open up point 1 in pic 2, and the valve on point 9, pic 1 (which you can't see) then open the garden house valve on line 1, pic 2. When the water flows out smoothly with no sputtering, the air is out, right? Well yes, but things just weren't working that way. I did everything I just said and water came out. Within 10 seconds, however, all the water came out and it just dried up! Uh, is that supposed to happen? Confused, I shut the line and waited about 30 minutes while I did other things. I came back and tried again. Same results!!! I had about enough of this plumbing project. Looks like it won and I lost. After about 10 successful projects, I was going to have to call in a plumber. I tried getting the job taken care of with my normal service contract, convinced that it was just a lack of knowledge on my part. I was told that since it was the weekend and they weren't sure the project fell under my normal service agreement, they might have to bill me...at the more expensive weekend rate...of $165 per hour!!! I quickly told the lady I'd figure it out myself. Searching this site, I found the answer. I did everything right except one thing. You have to continually add water to the line so that it keeps flushing the air out. You do that by flipping the little handle on point 5, pic 2. That automatically ensures that the pressure in the baseboards remains at the setting on the reducer by adding water when need be. However, if you open it manually, it will just let the water flow (also pushing the air out with it). If there's air in the line, the pipes aren't going to get hot, so you've gotta get the air out. With each bucket of water I let flow through, more of the line got hot. Three buckets of water later, the water was flowing smoothly and I had heat! Note that by me doing what I did, I introduced air into another zone, so I had to repeat the process for that zone as well. No biggie. Three more buckets later, that zone was working again! Now I don't know if there's a way to work on one zone while not affecting the others. I'll have to examine what I did a little and see if there's a sensible way of doing it. Anyway, hopefully this helps someone.

You've probably never been in a home with properly sized ductwork. Don't feel bad, it's estimated that as much as 3/4 of the heating and cooling systems in the US are oversized. 2 stage and modulating furnaces are better, but I've lived in a home with both, and both can be very comfortable and the single stage equipment doesn't make it feel more dry that I can tell. BUt you are correct, multistage cna reduce the sense of dryness you might get with a less than ideal system. THe RH of hot air is lower than cooler air, but cool air can make things feel drafty. That's why radiant heat is popular. You essentially have very, very low air velocities and much of the heat energy is indirect infrared heat which make you feel warmer, similar to direct sunlight. Keep in mind too, that unless you have an outdoor rest control for hte boiler or to sped up or slow the circulator, most hydronic air handlers are single stage for heating. So the heat is no different than a furnace. Worse, as you reduce BTU's to the coil, the airflow speed is usually ocnstant, so air temps get cooler. My point being, that a properly designed and installed furnace won;t make it feel dry even if single stage. But yes, oversized furnaces and those with restricted airflow can. Vairble capacity will always make the system more comfortable, but it will cost more. Radiant heat overall is superior, but the installed cost is much, much higher. That's why it fell out of favor. Same reason drywall took over the market and plaster disapeared. ITs' primarily a matter of cost. It's also why stone and brick homes aren't built anymore and concrete homes are the minority.

Here are examples of ones that look a little more contemporary (from Houzz). I believe both are custom wooden covers. [Contemporary Dining Room[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-dining-room-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_722~s_2103) by Norwich Architects & Building Designers Smith & Vansant Architects PC [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Commack Kitchen & Bath Designers Merri Interiors, Inc.