We have just installed Hard floors on Concrete using the glue down method. Unfortunately, my husband also got glue on our floor as he was installing. We saw in another chat thread that Mr.Clean Magic eraser works on the dried glue. I had my doubts, but decided to try it anyway. It REALLY works. The Bostik and Mopei cleaner does work too but leaves an oily residue on the floor, which then needs to be cleaned up, I've heard that denatured alcohol works good with this, but have not tried it yet. Has anyone else had experience with that? I've used Magic Eraser, Bostik adhesive remover, Mopei adhesive, and then cleaned with Bruce and Bona cleaner, and so far nothing has hurt my floor! It's hard work but gradually we are getting it all up!

I know of several people that use and swear by steam mops on hardwood. One friend has a 100 yr old house and said her floors have never been as clean as they are now since she started using the steam mop. I do not have hard wood and was told by the manufacturer not to use steam on laminate because it can cause some of them to start to delaminate on the edges. I have a shark steam mop and can tell you from experience the floor does NOT get wet it is dry pretty much instantly. It would get more water exposure by using a wet mop which is much wetter than a steam mop. But it is up to each individual as to whether they want to try it. My friend tried it first in a closet that had the same hard wood as the rest of the house and she was thrilled with the cleaning. When I was trying to decide if I wanted a steam mop and what kind I found my answer right here on GW at the cleaning forum and if you don't think there have been tons of discussions on the topic then just check out this link from that one forum. steam mops IT is a very heavily discussed topic here at GW. LOL If I had hardwood I would likely do the same test, I would try it on a location that is not right out in the open. Or specifically ask the manufacturer of the hard wood if that is a possibility. When I steam mop my tile it is completely dry in seconds after the mop goes over it, I can't risk the slipping factor, which is why it is really good for me. And I can do it sitting in my chair because the mop is so easy to use. I would certainly never presume to tell someone what to do I think we are all intelligent enough to make those informed decisions.

Denatured alcohol is also known as "rubbing alcohol". You can find it in any drug store for about $2/litre (quart...depending on where you live). Polyurethane doesn't mind alcohol. The "use it sparingly" is more for the homeowner and not the floor. The fumes of alcohol can cause people to feel dizzy. So a squirt onto a clean cloth and then a quick rub of the area and you are done. As for "cleaning" a hardwood floor, that's pretty easy. Sweep/vacuum 1-3 times weekly. A barely-damp (water only) microfibre mop every week. And a "cleaning" with a pH neutral hardwood floor cleaner (watch out for POLISHES that state "Revives the look of you Floors!"....they are hell on floors) about 1-2 PER MONTH. That's it. That's all. Nothing exciting. Nothing harsh. Nothing difficult. And remember: with hardwood you can OVER CLEAN! So stick to the basics. You'll be fine.

I'm going out on a limb here by suggesting you find out what type of homeowner DIY asbestos removal is ALLOWED by your state/local community. In the USA, there are some states (sorry - I don't live there so I don't know which ones allow this) allow a small square footage of homeowner DIY Asbestos mitigation. I know there is at least one state that allows (roughly) 135sf of DIY mitigation. What materials does that 135 entail? I don't know. Does that include the asbestos filled cut-back adhesive? I don't know. How does it work? I don't know. Because you are in 'investigation mode' and are looking at removing the hated tile in the hallway and mudroom, you *might be allowed to do it yourself....so long as your state/location allows it. You will have to investigate if your state allows it. You will have to follow the rules which includes landfill requirements for the 'bagged and tagged' asbestos tiles (and pay any fees required). As for me, I would do everything ELSE...but not the asbestos tile. You can DIY hardwood install. In theory you can DIY sand/finish on your own. I would pick a match to your current hardwood (that means width, cut, species and grade) and then use a high-end water based poly to get you the toughest possible finish. You can leave the current hardwood alone until you can move your stuff to the other side of the house. You then sand/refinish the existing hardwood in the IDENTICAL finish. No stain. Stains are picky and it is near impossible to match a stain a year or so later (it takes a special refinisher to get it done). Once you are ready for the kitchen RENOVATION you then demolish ALL the asbestos based tiles...with professional mitigation (assuming your state doesn't allow for DIY). I know your DRIVE is to get the tile OUT....but it isn't in your budget to do so properly. And your kitchen renovation is NOT in your budget for a full kitchen flooring install. It doesn't make any sense to remove the hated-tile today (spending a few thousand on kitchen flooring) only to have to REDO the kitchen flooring when you do a complete gut in a few years. It is money wasted. Those of us who have posted on Houzz long enough know this is going to happen. And I mean 98% chance you cannot save the replacement kitchen floor. Ask youself: Will I have the finances in 7 years to redo the kitchen floors when I do a full gut of my kitchen? Will it bother me that I have different floors in the hallway/mudroom than in the kitchen when I do the kitchen reno?