Have you had the walk thru yet? I would speak to the contractor and let them handle this for you.

One-quarter-inch thick hardwood plywood can be spread out for sliding heavy appliances to cabinet adjacency, and then front-to-back strips of the plywood aligned with the "feet" of the appliance can be used for final sliding into place. Then, either jack up one side after another and remove the strips, or keep them in place if the floor is soft (cherry, pine, etc.). For supporting significant weight on small feet over soft wood, the hardwood plywood can be augmented by stainless steel or aluminum strips to help spread the weight over more of the hardwood plywood and hence more of the underlying soft flooring. My 48-inch SZ refrigerator/freezer uses that approach over a cherry floor. This does raise the appliance slightly, so that may be a factor in deciding whether to keep the strips in place after appliance placement.

Scuff marks (sits on top of the finish...is actually "left behind" material from an object) are different from scratches (penetrates the finish and touches the wood). A floor finish is something that protects the wood - not the look. A finish is meant to take the abuse (take the scuffing) while leaving the wood underneath unharmed. Your floor is doing just that. That means the finish is "working". I know the VISUAL (how it looks) isn't appealing but the fact remains that the wood is still protected. Ok...on to maintenance. Oiled floors have more maintenance than polyurethane finishes. They require re-oiling several times before the next sand/refinish is required. And that re-oiling is normally done by the homeowner (move the furniture, apply the oil, let sit, wipe off, let dry, put furniture back). And the touch-ups (when the finish is disturbed and you need to reapply more colour) will also be done by the homeowner. Again, this is MUCH MORE frequent than a polyurethane finish. I HIGHLY recommend you go onto the Ligna website and find out what your maintenance requirements will be. I suggest you purchase EVERY PRODUCT they recommend for your floor and then teach yourself how to use it. It will save you oodles of stress when an event occurs. You will be ready for it. Now onto the colour. You have a very dark floor. The colour alone can and will show everything. And I mean everything. This is the norm for dark flooring whether it is stained maple, black porcelain, slate or soap stone. All dark products show everything (like a black car shows every speck of dust from the road....and water marks too). I would guess that the oil finish is doing "just fine" but because of the depth of colour, it is showing what happens to wood finishes when something is moved across them - they scuff. And because the finish is matte, the scuff marks show up as a low-gloss satin = visible difference in gloss level. For me, that's one reason why I prefer a satin finish over matte. It is easier to live with. At this point, you have a dark maple floor that appears to be doing its job. Getting a stain on maple is EXTREMELY difficult (so difficult that most refinishers will NOT attempt it). For this reason alone, the oil finish is a better option for a dark stained maple. If you wish to go 'natural' then a polyurethane in a satin finish is an excellent choice. If you wish to maintain a dark floor, you may want to stick with the oil....it is less hassle/heart ache than trying to stain maple with traditional stains. I'm sorry you don't like your floor. I wish there was a better way to deal with what you are going through.

Thank you for the advice, it’s nice to have someone who didn’t do the work give a neutral perspective