I also go for max production with fruit trees and vegetables. Fruit trees each have their own requirements depending on the type and rootstock. For example, a dwarf mandarin tree can put out a lot more fruit per sqft than a full size tree kept in a small pot. Also, I grow everything in fabric Root Pouch containers, which helps deal with expanding roots. No matter what, the roots will outgrow your container and effect the health and productivity of the tree. You can't treat fruit trees in pots like they're full size trees in the ground. What you need to do is research each tree you're growing. Citrus has different requirements than avocados. There are no dwarf avocados but there highly productive fig trees that can be kept small. I keep most of my trees in 15 gal pots. Smaller veggies are in 3, 5 or 7 gal pots depending on their needs. Also, you're far from the only person interested in max food production. I'm building an aquaponic setup designed for veggies. Vertical systems also max out sqft space. Google outdoor or balcony hydroponic systems and search images to see all the crazy contraptions people build. Overall, there's far more to growing productive trees than pot size.

I saw this only after I responded to a similar question at the end of the other thread on "Induction Question." http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/appl/msg0708501023840.html?24613 I'll just summarize. You can move large pans onto small hobs just as you can on any other kind of stove. And, you will have the same kinds of considerations that you have when putting a large pan on a small burner or any other kind of stove. Obviously, a small burner puts out less heat that a large one, so performance drops off in that sense. You should be able to avoid one problem that occurs with oversize pans on radiant smoothtops, Oversize pans on smoothtop radiant burners can confuse the sensors that regulate heat cycling and result in large pans not being able to boil water or result in taking an extremely long time to bring water to a boil. Induction does not use those kinds of sensors. See this link for a more detailed recent disucssion of this subject: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/appl/msg0708501023840.html?24613

I thought I posted to this yesterday. Maybe I'm on double-secret probation?? You've gotten good advice. With a bowl-type mud bed, the largest I prefer to go is 4" squares. Larger than that and you can get lippage issues due to the floor not being in plane. If you have a flat but sloped floor, example, for a linear/trench drain, then you can go with larger tile, but if you I go above a 4" square I'm losing grout lines under the footprint, so you need to look at slip resistance or CoF. Scroll about halfway through this thread to see 4" squares cut from a faux porcelain slate, DAL Continental Slate Asian Black. Typical sloped bowl base, not an inverted pyramid. Easy install, no lippage issues, and solid traction underfoot. You mentioned natural stone. Most natural stones can be fine in larger format tile, but it depends on the finish. There's the obvious stuff, like polished stone being more slippery than honed. And it also depends on the specific stone. Example; a marble will typically be more slippery than a slate. So obvious things like that. When I write "slate" I am not referring to the sedimenty flaky garbage sold at the box stores. "True slate" can indeed be excellent in a shower. And obviously, if you use large format on the shower floor, let your installer know ahead of time. The larger the tile, the more in-plane the sections of the floor have to be. Small tile can conform to small variations in elevation in a mud bed. Large tile can teeter-totter, causing lippage issues with neighboring tile. Curbless to a linear drain, you can have a very nice in-plane surface with large format. Good luck!

Here is a to-scale visual for you showing 3 different sink sizes in a 39" corner cabinet. Do make sure your corner cabinet is 39" and not 36" as this will make a difference in the maximum sink size. In the photo, the white rim around the gray is the lip that runs around the sink that attaches to the stone countertop for an undermount sink. The gray is the actual interior space of the sink. Each sink size is denoted next to it. I have both the 30" rectangle sink & the 23" D-Sink. The 30" fits everything including my super long grate panels for my rangetop (12"x24") with room to spare. I have a D-Sink in the kitchen and one in the laundry, it pretty much fits everything too including my roasting pan-at 17.5" long. One of the advantages of the D-Sink is that you gain a couple inches in width (20" vs 18" referring to measurement from top at the faucet to bottom at the counter) which helps visually with a corner cabinet and the dead space behind the faucet. Either shape you go with will be more than adequate for what you want to wash/soak in the sink--especially the 30" rectangle. But I don't think the 33" is a good idea as it will increase the amount of countertop between you & the sink by 2" which as LWO mentions will be a strain on your back. If you were going double bowl with the sink, that would be a different story, but since you're going single bowl, you will be just fine. I've also attached a link to the brand of sinks we put in in case your builder/KD has a hard time finding a ~30" sink. Ours are model #s LXUS03 & LXUS04. These are the dimensions I used to create the corner cabinet layout for you. Hope this helps! Here is a link that might be useful: Sinks Referenced Above