Well, hopefully someone with direct experience with this will chime in...I have looked at the Kitchenaid dimensions and installation instructions online because I want mine flush also. (I'm not using inset cabs though.) The dimensions are not entirely clear because they are not model-specific and show a front control panel in the diagram. However, it looks to me like the depth dimension is 24-1/2" to the outside of the flat plane of the door. (24-7/8" to the outside of the control panel on models with visible ones on the front, I think.) Plus up to 3/4" extra in the back for insulation, which varies by model and may be compressed. Whatever that means. I suppose you could even choose to leave it off, to save the space. So KA has not really provided enough information to know the depth exactly. But it looks like it will be AT LEAST 25-1/4" deep with a 3/4" panel attached, and as much as 26" with insulation depending on model. I would ask your contractor ASAP if the DW can be recessed into the wall. If not, and if an extra inch or two of counter would cost a lot of extra money, I would go with a Bosch model which I'm pretty sure is not as deep. To me, it would not look good to have a paneled DW not flush with the adjacent cabinet doors.

I've seen candlelight in a real kitchen and in the showroom. Both looked nice. I am also considering semi-custom with inset doors and have narrowed down to Candlelight and Mouser. Both look nice, and offer comparable prices. Mouser seem to have a tighter inset door (they back bevel the doors, showroom folks explained) and I like mouser colors better. However, I have not seen Mouser in a house and can not find much in the way of online reviews.

kitchendetective, I like the idea of changing one of the existing cabs to match the new ones, to tie the two walls together. LOL, this kitchen doesn't seem small to me either, my previous one was 8' x 8' for 13 years. My SO referred to it as a "one butt" kitchen. Allison, I have looked at the FKB before but didn't think to look this time. Duh. Thanks for th eother link too, I hadn't seen it before. Revans, I hope to leave as much in place as possible. The budget simply isn't there for a gut job (I am in the process of an essential one on the bathroom and that's been quite enough of an adventure!) "Before" pictures are at the link below (this is the beginnings of a before-and-after site I've just started) Layout: on the existing N wall, West to East 30" base cab with upper above 30" range with short upper above and place for a hood fan 30" base with upper above 36" sink base with standard SS double sink, window above 24" dishwasher with upper above 36" base with upper above E wall is all open to the dining room, there's a pantry round the corner in the DR S wall is currently, East to West 24" freezer 6'6" table 30" fridge 18" clear wall space (planning to set a 12" deep x 30" wide tall cabinet against the side of the fridge so it faces W) 36" doorway to back hall about 10" to W wall W wall has a window which comes down to just above counter height, nothing else There's no place to expand or knock out walls: N is the driveway, already non-conforming on my narrow lot, and S is 2 sets of stairs, down and up. Here is a link that might be useful: Pics of current kitchen

I'm a KD, here's what I think: -That kind of cabinet is usually called an "easy reach lazy susan" -A good number of people find the doors awkward. Some don't. -Be sure to order a few extra hinges. I have found this is the #1 hinge that people call in with warranty issues. It's a really big hinge that connects the two doors. -Custom cabinet companies offer different hinge options (ie. piano type hinge) that are easier to open and have MUCH less replacement worries. -If your design and budget allow, a better option is a diagonal lazy susan. You have a regular hinged door, a full circle susan and extra countertop space. PROS on this type: Won't work next to an appliance without a filler, will cost extra $ for your countertop and the 'opening' is smaller with the diagonal unit. See if you can open both types and see what you think. Bottom line: If you're going custom, check out the different hinge options. If you're going stock or semi-custom, open the doors and see if they annoy you. If not, then they will service you just fine! And consider the diagonal type as well. Kompy