Need advice on best kitchen shelf liner
11 years ago
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Comments (23)
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Shelf Paper / Shelf Liner Should I use it? Are you?
Comments (44)Rueben mentions crooked cuts. For me, the answer is a T-square, which you can buy where they sell art supplies. The 36" long T-square is the most useful. I just line the "T" part up with the side of the paper, and draw my square line with a sharpie. I just put new cabinets during the remodel of my family home. I got molded (?) glass panels with a striking bamboo design in the upper cabinets. I saw light coming through one cabinet door before they were installed and thought the glass was even more beautiful with light behind it. I had low profile, strip LED lights installed in the top of each cabinet. But when I p ut the supplied wood shelves in, the shelves below were very dark. So I ordered some 3/8" thick plexiglas cut to size. I bought the clear shelf liner with the little grooves. Since it is clear, the light goes right through the shelves and the cabinets and glass look beautiful. I used the rubbery mesh liner for the bottom shelves. I'm having trouble, too. They bunch up and get out of place when I move anything. That's why I got onto this thread--to see if there's a good way to hold the stuff in place....See MoreShelf liners in kitchen - yea or nay?
Comments (18)i use the ribbed plastic kind as well, then i dont have to worry if there is any water left of dishes and utensils when i'm putting them away. and yes, if you store glasses and mugs upside down the ribs hold them up enough to allow moisture to dry. the shelves that i didnt put liner on (because they are open and would show) are shrubbed up a bit from the rough bottom of mugs being slid on them. its the kind of thing that does bite when you are selling. and i have liner in the oil and vinegar cabinet, because you'll always get a drip....See MoreHood liner advice needed (VAH vs. Best vs. Zephyr)
Comments (8)... coming out of hibernation to put his oar in, says: This forum has a large wealth of technical information on this topic that should be reviewed by anyone new to the subject who is planning to achieve actual kitchen ventilation. Here are some tidbits, boiled down from various attempts here to provide practical rules of thumb. We will start with opaone's suggestion. Hood function depends on successful capture and containment. Capture depends on hood aperture overlaping the rising and expanding cooking plumes. 54 inches by 27 inches would be considered the minimum for adequate capture of a 48-inch high power cooktop. Hood containment depends on flow velocity at the capture aperture. For this size hood (assuming inside aperture is nearly 54 x 27) I would argue for around 1000 CFM of actual flow rate. To get this flow rate with a real blower, you will need a blower that is characterized (at zero pressure loss) as capable of 1500 CFM. Similarly, if one is constrained at 48 inches hood width (please cook greasy things on the middle burners), the values are 800 and 1200 CFM, actual and rated. Either size blower can easily operate through a 10-inch duct. Hoods with single duct interfaces are widely available from Modernaire, Captiveaire, Wolf, and many others. The actual flow rates noted above are based on a 1.5:1 ratio of nominal to actual, and this assumes some generalities about the fan curves of reputable fans and pressure losses of baffles, ducts, and most importantly -- the make-up air system. (Please review relevant threads on MUA in this forum.) No air flows out the duct that didn't get into the house somehow. At the higher actual CFM levels, house leakage is not adequate for providing this air flow rate. To answer the OP's question just above, higher flow rate through an undersized hood has only a slight to modest effect on increasing the effective size of the hood. The reason is that hoods do not suck cooking effluent from the cooktop, but intercept it and keep it in the hood. The rising plume velocity can exceed a meter per second for gas cooking, and this is what gets the plume to the hood. Air flow velocity for the flow rates I suggest is only half of this at the hood aperture, and rapidly drops off more than a few inches away from it. For actual flow effect at the source of the plume, one would have to use fume hood rules of engagement, where high flow at the effluent generator (welding, grinding, whatever) is achieved. You would need ear protection with such a system, and a huge heating capability for the make up air, perhaps augmented by structures intended to restrict the effluent from escaping the flow. kas...See MoreNeed a shelf liner to protect shoe shelves
Comments (4)Gorilla Grip shelf liner- https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Original-Non-Adhesive-Cabinets/dp/B07773PQG7/ref=asc_df_B07773PQG7/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242028482092&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12581359529156773790&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011007&hvtargid=pla-447489210895&psc=1...See MoreRelated Professionals
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