Hmm...does this mean that if you do not remove the glass a small part will remain unpainted? If so, ignore the next part of this post. I didn't have the option to remove the glass when I painted my oak cabinets b/c it was factory built in. I used a brown grocery bag cut to size and wide painter's tape on each side of the door. I took the tape off after the clean/sand/ prime phase and reapplied for the paint phase to be sure the primer or paint didn't peel with the tape. None of the glass broke and the edges are clean. I should mention over half the doors were glass so it was a job of patience.

I'm not sure of exactly where you plan on putting the additional cabinets. If it's on that wall across from the DW and next to the door, you won't have clearance for traffic at all. For the fridge, the cabinet that is over the fridge looks to be a 36" or 39" cabinet, which is appropriate for a 36" (standard) sized fridge. Your fridge looks to be a 30" sized one, and this would leave you (and any future owners) without the option of getting a standard sized fridge in that location. Are you sure you want to imprison yourself to that small a size fridge forever? And, to get a deep cabinet and (very) small broom closet there, you'd need to increase the soffit depth, and go right up to the molding on the door frame. That would leave you with about a 6" exterior sized broom closet (with interior dimensions of about4 1/2" if you chose FRAMELESS cabinets only), because you would need a bit of spacer between it and the fridge. That would be a LOT of money spent on very little gain of usable space. Please post an overhead scale schematic so that we can look at the total layout of the kitchen and indicate exactly where you are talking about putting the desk area. This will help others to help you and also help you to visualize the changes you are proposing and the consequences.

I bought mine at my neighborhood glass/mirror shop. I had 4 cabinet doors that I wanted to install glass panels. I brought one of the cabinet doors into the shop so that they could measure. I chose panels that are clear glass with a bevelled edge because I wanted the clear glass (no frosted or seeded for me), and the bevelling adds a luxury look to the glass. The bevelling almost doubled the cost of the glass but it was worth it IMO. In about a week, the glass shop called me that the glass was ready. I brought the 4 cabinet doors in, they installed the glass (I think I left the doors there overnight and picked them up the next day). My cabinet doors have easy "clip-style" hinges, so once I brought them home, it was cinch to hang them (though they were a little heavy). I thought the cost was very reasonable. I had checked with some online glass places, and the online places seemed more expensive, and I would have had to deal with shipping, and the installation. I really liked the customer service at my local place. The people there were so nice and helpful. My advice is to look in your yellow pages and find a couple of local glass stores and call them or stop in to tell them what you have in mind, and see what they say as to cost.

A fein multimaster with the flat/sharp blade could get between the glass and the wood (from the front) to cut the sealant. From the back a sharp utility knife would cut it. You will probably sustain some damage to the wood from the Fein. But there may be no perfect solution. Simply smashing the glass out (place the doors over a trash can) could still tear up the muntins, which are always very delicate in glass doors. If you don't have muntins in your doors, breaking the glass out is a faster cheaper alternative. The fein tools are very costly. Casey