Depends on where you are. Zone 8 Pacific northwest is quite different from Zone southeast. In georgia one has a lot more leeway in the fall than with spring plantings. Spring demands a short season cultivar, while you can get away with a longer DTM in fall. Summer heat is the problem, Both broccoli and cauliflower can tolerate light freezes. I prefer to transplant around Labor day. Depending on the plants DTM harvest can occur from Thanksgiving into January. Broccoli that has done very well for me: short DTM- Early Dividend, Blue Wind, Superdome, Everest, Bay Meadows. long DTM - Barbados, Emerald Giant. Cauliflower: short DTM - Majestic, Montana, Candid Charm, Rushmore, White Passion.

Randy, What you need to know is that the cole family is picky, picky, picky. Productivity can be impaired by low soil moisture, low soil fertility, and temperatures that are either too high or too low. Other than that, they're a cinch to grow. Beyond those issues, broccoli plants can bolt and go to seed if exposed to hot weather, or can form buttonheads (small heads about the size of a quarter) if exposed to cold weather while small although you won't know the weather was 'too cold' for them until you get those buttonheads. Normally, if you plant broccoli a couple of weeks before your average last frost date, it will grow and produce well. Unfortunately, we've had later and later 'late freezes' the last 3 or 4 years and I have been sliding my broccoli planting date later and later every year because of that. I have been planting more like the week or two weeks after my average last frost date instead of 2 weeks before and that's worked out fairly well. If you used transplants that had 4 to 6 leaves, were about 4 or 5 weeks old, had good healthy green color and were not stalled in their growth, you should get broccoli heads from 60 to 80 days after you transplanted, assuming you planted varieties that perform well in Oklahoma. Last year's weather was oddly rainy at our house (almost 13" of rain in one day in late April which severely waterlogged our entire garden and stalled its growth) and cooler than usual, and we didn't harvest broccoli until June. Usually by late-May here in southern OK, the broccoli has either formed heads and has been harvested or has bolted and flowered. This year, our broccoli is just beginning to form heads the last few days, and it has been subjected to very cold temperatures and snow and also to temperatures in the upper 80s, so I have no idea if I'll get buttonheads or no real heads or nice, big heads or what. Cauliflower is even harder to grow successfully in Oklahoma in the spring. I have better luck with it as a fall crop--planted in mid- to late-summer for harvest in the autumn. It has the same temperature requirements as broccoli--performing best if it matures before temps begin regularly exceeding 75 degrees, but has even less tolerance for early cold weather. Even if you set out transplants that are the right size/age (roughly 4 or 5 weeks old) at the so-called right time, you have to cross your fingers and hope the weather doesn't get too high or too low during its growth. So, even though you do everything right...choosing the right varieties, transplanting them out at the right size/age, etc., there is so much you cannot controlo...namely the extreme temperature variations we usually have here in spring. As long as the broccoli and cauliflower plants are not yet going to seed and forming flowers, you still have a chance of getting a harvest. However, the closer our daytime highs get to the 90s, the less likely the chances of a good harvest. My broccoli has been very slow this...

I do what Lone Jack does. You don't want your cauliflower and broccoli to stall in growth because they are rootbound as you can get the button heads many weeks later. By the time you are seeing tiny buttonheads instead of big heads, you may forget you had trouble with rootbound seedlings and be left forever wondering why the plants didn't produce properly. Becoming rootbound is the reason many purchased broccoli and cauliflower plants buttonhead a couple of months after they're bought and transplanted, and is one reason I prefer to grow my own. Spinach germinates best at temperatures of 59 and lower, although you might get half the seeds to germinate at up to 65-70 degrees. You can sometimes trick it into germinating by putting the seeds in a cup of water in the fridge for a couple of days where the cool water and temperatures set the germination process in motion, or you can sprout the seeds in the fridge in a wet paper towel (or in soil-less mix in a small flat). I don't like leaving the seeds in the fridge more than a couple of days because the seeds germinate so slowly at cold temperatures. Just having a bit of cold, moist stratification seems to help induce germination Spinach really isn't crazy about being transplanted, so disturb the roots as little as possible when you put the plants in the ground in September.

Pulling any mushroom despite its type wouldn't help anything, a mushroom is a fruiting body of the mycelium network that lies underneath, the mycelium is essentially the root system, the actual mushroom above ground is the fruits pulling the mushrooms itself wouldn't hurt or solve anything.