Clumping bamboo in MA will not be the same as clumping bamboo in FL :-) Even in my pretty mild climate, clumping bamboo is an extremely manageable plant and I see no reason not assume a similar well-behaved habit in colder zones. From a regional bamboo specialty nursery: Overview of Clumping Bamboo Clumping bamboo are defined as having a non-invasive rhizome structure (known as pachymorph rhizome) which differs from the better known �and sometimes feared�running bamboo (leptomorph rhizome). Clumpers form a tight cluster of gently arching culms extending from a relatively small root mass. Each underground bud pushes upward forming culms, and do not become long running rhizomes. Instead, clumping bamboos grow outward in a circular formation at a modest pace of 2 to 12 inches per year. Canopy growth is also relatively slow, usually gaining a couple feet of height and width annually. Height range at maturity is between 10 and 20 feet for most species. There are some exceptions; tropical and subtropical species can reach 50 feet or more in the US, given hot, southern climates. We have a special affection for hardy clumping bamboos. We believe these plants will help overcome popular fears about bamboo, and pave the way to its acceptance as a significant addition to the landscape as well as its incorporation into our culture. Bamboo Garden is on the forefront of introducing new and exciting species of clumping bamboo into the United States and promoting their multitude of uses. Though many are new to cultivation, clumping bamboo are gaining recognition for their landscape value as low maintenance alternatives to the larger, more vigorous, running bamboos. Fargesia sp. �Rufa�, with plumes of feather-like foliage, provide a wonderful accent to the small urban garden. Larger species, such as F. robusta, create dense evergreen privacy screens to over 15 feet. The gracefully weeping culms of Borinda angustissima and F. sp. �Jiuzhaigou� support masses of tiny leaves with a delicate, airy texture. Outer culms can be topped to make the plant more compact and upright. New introduction, F. sp. �Scabrida�, has outstanding colors: purple culms outlined by rusty-red culm sheaths contrasting with dark green leaves. Some species, such as F. nitida, are among the most cold hardy bamboo, surviving temperatures as low as negative 20� Fahrenheit. Most thrive in a partial shade environment, but there is enough variety to find a suitable clumping bamboo for just about any need. Our selection have special significance and unique qualities for the home garden or commercial landscape. We hope the pages of our website offer a new perspective of the possibilities and wonderful variety among clumping bamboo. Here is a link that might be useful: Bamboo Gardens

I think I am getting a handle on your instructions for posting photos - here are a few. We built the GH from plans my wife designed - Here I am filling the raised bed with top soil. Then we installed the polycarbonate on the framing. We used all redwood then put on two coats of semi-transparent stain for longer life. We put a storm door and windows on both ends of the GH for venting and view. We also have an auto matic gable fan with vents on a thermostat. We built raised beds outside of the GH for Cold weather corps that grow well in Wyoming (strawberries, asparagus, beets, carrots etc.). We grow wide rows of peas - beans - squash - cucumbers etc. and cover them with a frost blanket in early spring & fall. We get a great crop as long as we watch the weather report and get the plants covered with blankets. Now here we are in winter! This photo was taken a couple of weeks ago. The GH is almost finished except for the electrical and additional raised beds I plan to complete over the winter. Here is our small patch of experimental lettuce & spinach as it looks today, Dec 18th. They just sit there unless the sun comes out and it warms up a bit. Hoped soil heat cables with a polycarbonate lid may change all that and we could actually grow something over the winter? RE: Soil Heating Cables Posted by: karin_mt 4 (My Page) on Sat, Dec 18, 10 at 21:02 WOW! Awesome photos - you have a really nice place there. You guys don't mess around either; it looks like you do things at full tilt! The greenhouse is beautiful. It's so nice and big, which is something I would be quite happy with. Looks like an impressive design and very well built. The outdoor raised beds are lovely too. I like the flat board on top so you can sit there are weed. (Do you have weeds there in Wyoming?) How cold was it in there while it was 24 below outside? My spinach and lettuce are often frozen fairly solid in the morning. Looks like they're goners but then they thaw out and perk up. Kind of miraculous! In addition to winter growing, your soil heat idea will definitely give you a jump start in the spring. Tomatoes will love that. I start mine in March and they grow so fast I have to keep potting them up. By May they are in gallon pots and are like little trees. The ones that I intend to keep in the GH all summer get planted in the ground bed in early May. The outdoor ones go in in early June. Speaking of which, it is dinner time and I have just cooked up the last of our Super San Marzanos and made a fresh batch of pasta. YUM! Thanks for the pictures - really impressive! RE: Soil Heating Cables Posted by: Eric 7b (ekscholl@gmail.com) on Wed, Sep 7, 11 at 21:19 It's about that time again... Thanks for the building description, karin. Which soil heating cables are you guys using? Built-in thermostat or heavy-duty cabling where the thermostat is connected in series? Thanks. Post a Follow-Up Your Name: Your Email Address: Zone (optional): Subject of Posting: Message: Optional Link URL: Name of the Link: Return to the Greenhouses & Garden Structures Forum

Hi SandiB This is my first time over here at Garden experiments and your "hot tips for gutter cables" caught my eye. I have a wnderfully simple system that I designed for my cold frames. The heating cables that I use on the floor are similiar to gutter cables ,but they are the type used to wrap water pipes. Same principal just a little diff. application. The cable itself is 25feet long and is 10 watts /foot. The frames are 8'long x 4'wide. About 3 1/2 feet high in the back and 1 1/2 feet in the front. A pretty good pitch. 250 watts is plenty for my application. The wiring is relatively simple so I hope I don't turn it into a "challenge" while trying to explain it. On the back wall of the cold frame I mounted 2 separate electrical boxes which are connected by a short piece of conduit.In the upper box I have a standard line voltage thermostat which is wired to and controls a recepticle (weatherproof) mounted in the lower box. When the temp drops below whatever I have the thermostat set for, it will send power to the recept in which the heat cable is plugged into. Also the power comes to the coldframe from a heavy duty rubber cord which I plug int the back of the house. I don't use it during the coldest winter months for vegs. I put my seedlings out at the end of march/ beg.of April, and its looking more like April for this yr. I usually like (so do they) to start my seeds indoors and then move them out when they get their true leaves. It's a really a simple system and it works well. I'm much anticipating that 1st peep out of the tiny spring peepers. They will probably stay quiet until June, at the rate things are warming up. Do you have the gutter cables, or are you going to purchase in the future. If you dont have them yet, you might consider the type for water pipes. Just a thought. Joe in PA.

In 1984 I was the smartest man alive. I graduated from a business school with a 4.0 average. I was working in northern maine planning to be the next lumber barron. armed with a few copies of Mother Earth news I was going to show the hicks how to build a house that almost paid you to live there. A few examples(but not all) double air gaps and vapor barriers, boxed electric boxes inside vs flush to stop air leaks and last to the point of this post roof a 30/60 90 right triagle to capture the skylight sun so no heat was needed on the second floor.It was in maine. In the last 25 years mother, mother and mother Have hounded me. (mother nature, roof design lets no sun on the north side) ( mother of my children, we have to buy new shoes theirs are mouldy from damp north side closits) My mother , why don't you just put up heat tape so the water runs off. What I have learned in the last 6 years. 1 it is a waste of time to plug in heat tape under 20 F. 2 unplug at night unless it is going to rain. 3 don't let your mother know you listened to her or you will hear about it at christmas and thanksgiving. 4 it is better to spring for the longer tape up front then to chop ice and splice in January. A new question "how does a 75 year old know by dipping her finger in a sugar mix when it is time to glue the waco mints to a gingerbread house. I have to know I might have great grand children someday?