I don't think we can tell you. The method used to lay the tile varies and your tiles can be more stuck than mine were. Sometimes, its construction adhesive, sometimes thinset or "mud" - a very thick layer of mortar. Sometimes, the plaster is in great condition and sometimes not-so-much. My experiences run from the PO's bathroom floor tile which can up with a roofing shovel and didn't even injure the plywood subfloor vs. another small floor that was a mud job that I needed to beat to death with a hammer. At least it was a replacement mud job. Mud jobs run from 1/2" to 3 inches thick. You should be prepared to lose the entire thing. Having said that - trying to remove some is the only way to know. Do something like rent or borrow a dremel type tool with the masonry bit and dig out the grout around a tile or too. Get a stiff bladed drywall knife and work it behind the tile and pop. Good luck!

Posted by budgeteer_s (My Page) on Wed, Dec 31, 08 at 18:18 Thanks for all your suggestions. I wanted so much to follow with ci_lantro's suggestion because then I'm done. I'll gladly let you snatch that paint brush out of my hand. ha ha. But at the same time if a little tiling will tie up the project, then I'm game. jodi_socal: I'm a little disappointed when you said fire and ice won't work. I just LOVE that F&I BS. But then agin, I think I know all along it's a little too much for my kitchen. Caryscott & petra: Thanks for the picture petra, it says a thousand words. Is spectralight glass tiles? Prices are pretty reasonable. What about that milk green color? will it work? maybe with some garnet pieces sparingly mixed in. I will take some pictures and post two HD Behr's paint card to aid in the discussion of color. Thanks again ALL! Correction: My tiles were Alfagres: Gema4x4: different from what caryscott posted: I loved what caryscott linked:

I'm not sure how I came across this post, I think it was displayed on the right side and I clicked on it being intrigued by the tile making. I was at one time interested in working with papercrete and hypertufa. But after enlisting my brother, who wasn't as enthusiastic, and my niece, who poured cement down my laundry room sink, which original to the house had lasted 70 years, and ruining three blenders, my interest waned. True to form, if I come upon difficulty in a project, I think of it as a sign for me not to continue. And really, after all these years of trying various crafts that result in crap, I should know better. I also should have known better than to ask my brother, who always says it can't be done to any of my unique design ideas. And I should have known better than to ask my niece, who once stayed up all night before having to drive to LA for an art show, cutting mat after mat after measuring once, twice, sometimes ten times, but always coming out with the wrong size. I think we both have math dyslexia. I should video us trying anything crafty to see where we go wrong. I think both of us having ADHD might have something to do with it. Sorry for the backstory and run on sentences. So, I just wanted to see if you continued with your venture. And to say sorry for whatever tragedy occurred to cause you to have to move to Florida. Not that there is anything wrong with Florida, but it isn't Panama. Which is one of my favorite places in the western hemisphere. I hope no one is upset that I brought up a seven year old post.

I'm not a professional and it depends on the size of the area to be repaired, but it's pretty easy to cut out damaged dry wall and then mud the patch seams. You want to do whatever will maximize the clean, level surface. And, yes, you will need to feather and sand your mud until it is dead level. I wouldn't paint the mudded, repaired drywall before tiling, at least, I never have. And I've never primed drywall before mudding it. If you've only read or watched videos, be sure you practice. If your repair area is large, even if just 'paper', maybe hire somebody?